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A Full Teardown and Precision Service of the Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5500C3

The Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5500C3 is an icon in the fishing world. Renowned for its robust construction, simplicity, and durability, this Swedish-made round baitcaster has been a favorite of anglers for decades. Its timeless design is not only effective but also remarkably serviceable. A complete teardown, cleaning, and proper lubrication will restore its factory-smooth performance and ensure it remains a reliable tool for years to come. This guide provides a detailed, step-by-step process for a full service.

Phase 1: Preparation and Essential Tools

Before you begin disassembly, proper preparation is key to a smooth and successful service.

Your Workspace: Choose a clean, well-lit area with a flat surface. Lay down a white towel or a non-slip reel servicing mat. This provides a clean background, making small parts highly visible and preventing them from rolling away. A magnetic parts tray is also an excellent addition for securing screws and small springs.

Essential Tools & Materials:

  • Abu Garcia 5500C3 Schematic: This is your most crucial tool. Download and print the correct schematic for your specific model. It is an invaluable roadmap for part identification, orientation, and reassembly.
  • Tools:
    • Abu Garcia Flat Wrench: This multi-tool often comes with new reels and is perfectly sized for the handle nut. A 10mm wrench can also be used.
    • Screwdrivers: A small, high-quality flathead screwdriver is necessary for the side plate screws and other internal components.
    • Pliers: A pair of needle-nose pliers can be helpful, though not always necessary.
    • Small Parts Tweezer or Pick: Useful for handling tiny clips and springs.
  • Cleaning Supplies:
    • Degreaser: A quality degreaser safe for plastics and metals. Common choices include WD-40 (used as a cleaner, not a lubricant), mineral spirits, or specialized reel cleaners.
    • Isopropyl Alcohol (90%+): Excellent for a final cleaning of bearings and other sensitive parts.
    • Cleaning Containers: Small glass or metal jars are useful for soaking parts.
    • Brushes: An old toothbrush and a smaller, stiffer-bristled brush (like a small paintbrush with trimmed bristles) are perfect for scrubbing gears and frames.
    • Cotton Swabs & Lint-Free Cloths: For detailed cleaning and wiping down all components.
  • Lubricants:
    • Reel Grease: A quality, purpose-made fishing reel grease. Popular choices include Cal’s Universal Reel and Star Drag Grease or Penn Precision Reel Grease.
    • Reel Oil: A high-quality, light viscosity oil. Examples include TSI 321, ReelX, or Abu Garcia’s Silicote Reel Oil.

Phase 2: Meticulous Disassembly

Follow a systematic approach. Lay out the parts on your mat in the order they are removed. This creates a visual trail that simplifies reassembly.

Handle-Side Teardown:

  1. Handle Assembly: Unscrew the small handle lock cap retaining screw. Remove the lock cap. Use your 10mm wrench to unscrew the handle nut (note: it is standard right-hand thread). Lift the handle straight off the drive shaft.
  2. Star Drag: Unscrew the star drag completely. As you remove it, be mindful of the audible click-spring mechanism and two curved spring washers underneath. Set these aside carefully.
  3. Right Side Plate (Gear Side): Unscrew the two large, knurled thumbscrews that hold the right side plate to the frame. The side plate may be snug; gently wiggle it to separate it from the frame posts. The entire gear assembly will come off with the side plate.

Spool and Frame Teardown:

  1. Spool Removal: With the right side plate removed, the spool can be lifted straight out of the frame. On the 5500C3, the centrifugal braking system is attached to the end of the spool shaft.
  2. Left Side Plate (Non-Handle Side): The left side plate is held on by three small, flathead screws. Carefully unscrew these and set the plate aside. This exposes the idler gear and the spool cap assembly.
  3. Level Wind Assembly:
    • Unscrew the pawl cap on the front of the reel. The small level wind pawl will drop out. Be careful not to lose it.
    • Look at the left side of the frame where you removed the side plate. You will see a small, white plastic idler gear. Remove it.
    • On the front of the frame, you will see a small C-clip holding the level wind worm gear in place. Use a small pick or screwdriver to carefully pry this clip off. Cup your hand over it during removal, as these clips are notorious for flying into oblivion.
    • With the clip removed, the worm gear can be slid out from the right side of the frame. The line guide can then be removed.

Right Side Plate Internal Teardown:

  1. Bridge and Main Gear Assembly:
    • On the internal side of the right side plate, you will see the bridge assembly held on by two flathead screws. Remove these two screws.
    • The entire bridge assembly, including the main gear, drag stack, and anti-reverse components, can now be lifted off the post.
  2. Drag Stack: Slide the main gear off the gear sleeve. Lay out the drag washers in the exact order they came out. A typical 5500C3 stack (from bottom to top) is: keyed metal washer, carbon fiber washer, eared metal washer, carbon fiber washer, keyed metal washer, and a final thin carbon fiber washer that sits under the main gear.
  3. Pinion Gear and Yoke: The brass pinion gear and its plastic yoke will now be loose. Lift them out. Note the two small springs that sit under the yoke.

At this point, your reel is fully disassembled.

Phase 3: The Deep Clean

Thoroughly cleaning every component is the foundation of a smooth-running reel.

  1. Gears and Metal Parts: Place the main gear, pinion gear, bridge, and other large metal parts in a container and spray them liberally with your degreaser. Let them soak for a few minutes to break down old, hardened grease. Use a toothbrush to scrub the gear teeth and all surfaces until they are spotless. Wipe them clean with a lint-free cloth.
  2. Bearings: The 5500C3 has two main spool bearings. Both are located inside the spool.
    • Do not soak sealed or shielded bearings in harsh degreasers.
    • Clean the exterior of the bearings. If they are open-race bearings, you can flush them with isopropyl alcohol.
    • Hold the bearing by its outer race and spin the inner race. It should spin smoothly and quietly. Any grittiness or noise indicates a bearing that needs replacement.
  3. Frame and Side Plates: Use your degreaser and brushes to clean the inside of the frame and both side plates. Pay special attention to the worm gear channel and the inside of the spool housing. Use cotton swabs to reach into tight corners.
  4. Level Wind System: Clean the worm gear’s grooves meticulously with a brush and degreaser. Any old grease or debris in these grooves will impede level wind performance. Clean the pawl and the line guide as well.
  5. Drag Washers: The stock carbon fiber washers should be wiped clean with a dry, lint-free cloth. There is no need to use a degreaser on them.

After cleaning, ensure every single part is completely dry before proceeding to lubrication.

Phase 4: Precision Lubrication and Reassembly

Lubrication is a case of “less is more.” Over-lubricating will attract dirt and slow the reel down.

Reassembly:

  1. Right Side Plate Internals:
    • Grease: Apply a light, even coat of grease to the teeth of the main gear and the pinion gear. Place a small amount of grease on the gear sleeve post in the side plate.
    • Set the pinion gear into the plastic yoke and place the black plastic position holder over top of the yoke.
    • Drag Stack: If desired, a micro-thin layer of Cal’s or Deuthlon drag grease can be applied to the carbon washers, but they also perform exceptionally well dry. Reassemble the drag stack onto the main gear in the correct order.
    • Place the bridge assembly back into position, ensuring it meshes with the pinion yoke. Secure it with the two bridge screws.
  2. Level Wind System:
    • Oil: Apply a few small drops of light oil into the grooves of the worm gear.
    • Slide the line guide back into position. Insert the worm gear through the frame and line guide, and secure it with the C-clip.
    • Place the plastic idler gear back onto its post on the left side of the frame.
    • Apply a single drop of oil to the level wind pawl and drop it into the line guide. Screw the pawl cap back on until it is snug, but do not overtighten.
  3. Bearings and Spool:
    • Oil: Apply one small drop of high-quality oil directly to each spool bearing. Do not use grease.
    • Place the left side plate back on the frame and secure it with the three screws.
    • Insert the spool back into the frame, ensuring the cog on the end of the spool shaft engages with the idler gear.
  4. Final Assembly:
    • Align the right side plate with the frame posts and press them together firmly. Secure with the two thumbscrews.
    • Place the two curved spring washers over the gear sleeve in a “()” orientation to provide tension for the star drag.
    • Screw the star drag on.
    • Place the handle on the gear sleeve, followed by the handle nut. Tighten it firmly.
    • Install the handle lock cap and its retaining screw.

Final Performance Checks

With the reel fully reassembled, perform these final checks:

  • Free Spool: Click the clutch bar. The spool should spin freely and for a long time with minimal noise.
  • Retrieve: Engage the handle. It should turn over smoothly, and the level wind should travel back and forth without hesitation.
  • Drag: Tighten the star drag and pull line off the spool. The drag should be smooth and consistent, without any jerking.
  • Anti-Reverse: Turn the handle forward and then try to turn it backward. There should be no backward play.

By following this comprehensive guide, you have done more than just clean your reel. You have restored a precision piece of angling equipment to its optimal state, ready for countless more battles on the water. Regular service will ensure your Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5500C3 remains a treasured and effective part of your arsenal.