Downriggers - Reel Schematic

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Mastering the Spread: A Comprehensive Guide to Using Planer Boards with Downriggers

Of all the techniques developed for trolling, the combination of planer boards and downriggers stands out as one of the most effective and comprehensive methods for covering vast amounts of water. This is not a simple setup for the casual angler; it is a sophisticated strategy that allows a fishing vessel to present an enormous, multi-depth spread of lures. By mastering this combination, anglers can create a virtual net of offerings that moves through the water, targeting fish at various depths and distances from the boat simultaneously. This detailed guide explores the strategic advantages of this system and provides an in-depth look at how to properly deploy and manage it for maximum effectiveness.

Understanding the Core Components

Before merging the two systems, it’s essential to understand the distinct role each piece of equipment plays.

1. The Downrigger: The Master of Depth A downrigger is a device designed for one primary purpose: precise vertical depth control. It is essentially a winch that lowers a heavy weight, often called a cannonball, on a steel cable. Your fishing line is not tied directly to the weight. Instead, it is attached to the cable or the weight itself via a specialized “release clip.”

How it Works: You let your lure out behind the boat to the desired distance (the “lead”), then clip your fishing line into the release. You then lower the cannonball to the exact depth you want to fish, as indicated by a line counter on the downrigger. When a fish strikes the lure, the pressure pulls the line free from the release clip, and you are then free to fight the fish directly on your rod and reel without the heavy weight attached.
Primary Function: To place a lure at a specific, repeatable depth, far below what can be achieved with line weight or lure design alone.

2. The Planer Board: The Master of Width A planer board is a hydrodynamic device designed for horizontal lure placement. Its purpose is to carry your fishing line far out to the side of the boat, away from the wake and engine noise.

How it Works: The board is shaped and weighted to track outwards in the water as the boat moves forward, pulling the fishing line with it. There are two main types:
- In-Line Planer Boards: These are smaller, individual boards that clip directly onto your fishing line. The line runs through the clips, and the entire board remains on the line while you fight the fish.
- Mast System (Dual Boards): This system uses two large planer boards, one for the port side and one for the starboard side, which are let out on heavy tow ropes attached to a mast on the boat. Your fishing lines are then attached to the main tow rope via release clips (similar to downrigger clips), allowing you to “stack” multiple lines on each side of the boat.
Primary Function: To increase the horizontal width of your trolling spread and present lures in undisturbed water away from the boat.

The Synergy: Why This Combination is So Effective

Combining downriggers and planer boards transforms a simple trolling pass into a highly effective, three-dimensional grid of attack. The effectiveness stems from several key strategic advantages.

1. Unparalleled Water Coverage: By using downriggers to control the depths directly behind the boat and planer boards to control the width far out to the sides, you exponentially increase the footprint of your presentation. A boat that might normally cover a 20-foot wide path can suddenly cover a path over 100 feet wide. This is invaluable when searching for scattered or suspended schools of fish in large bodies of water.

2. Ultimate Stealth Presentation: Many species of fish are boat-shy. The noise of the engine, the turbulence of the propeller wash, and the large shadow cast by the hull can push fish out of the direct path of the boat. Lures run on planer boards are presented in quiet, undisturbed water far to the side. These lures often account for the largest and wariest fish, which would never strike a lure trolled directly behind the boat.

3. Multi-Strata Targeting: Fish do not always hold at the same depth. Thermoclines, baitfish location, and light conditions can cause fish to stratify throughout the water column. This combination allows you to target multiple zones at once. You can run deep lures on the downriggers to target fish holding near the bottom or in a deep thermocline, while simultaneously running lures on the planer boards higher in the water column to appeal to active, suspended fish.

4. Efficient Experimentation: This setup is a powerful tool for deciphering a daily pattern. You can run different lure types, colors, and sizes at various depths and distances from the boat all at the same time. Once you start getting strikes on a particular line—say, the outer starboard planer board with a silver spoon—you can adjust your other lines to replicate that successful presentation.

How to Deploy and Use the Super Spread: A Step-by-Step Guide

Setting up a spread involving both downriggers and planer boards requires a methodical, organized approach to prevent catastrophic tangles. The cardinal rule is to set your inside lines (downriggers) first and your outside lines (planer boards) last.

Step 1: Set the Deep Lines (Downriggers)

Prepare the Lure: With the boat at trolling speed, let your chosen downrigger lure out behind the boat. A typical lead length is 15 to 100 feet, depending on water clarity and fish behavior. A longer lead provides more stealth.
Attach to the Release: Once the lure is at the desired distance, clip the fishing line into the downrigger release clip. Ensure it’s secure but will release with a firm tug.
Deploy the Cannonball: Zero the line counter on your downrigger and begin lowering the cannonball to your target depth. Place the rod in a holder, reel up any slack until the rod has a gentle bend in it, and set the reel’s drag.
Repeat for the Other Side: If using two downriggers, repeat the process on the other side of the boat. Your deepest lines are now set.

Step 2: Set the Wide Lines (Planer Boards)

Prepare the Lure: Select the rod for your outermost planer board line. Let the lure out much farther than you did for the downrigger—typically 75 to 200 feet or more. This long lead is what determines the lure’s fishing depth, as it’s running freely behind the board.
Attach the Planer Board: For an in-line board, clip it directly onto the line at the water’s surface. For a mast system, attach your line to a release clip and then slide that clip onto the main tow rope.
Deploy the Board: Place the rod in a holder set at a high angle to keep the line out of the water. With the reel in free-spool (using your thumb or the clicker to prevent backlash), the board will immediately begin to track out to the side of the boat. Let it travel to the desired distance from the boat.
Engage and Set: Once the board is in position, engage the reel, reel up any slack until the rod has a bend, and set the drag.
Repeat and Vary: Repeat this process for your second planer board on the other side of the boat. If you are running more lines, set the inside planer board lines next, ensuring they are positioned between the outer boards and the downrigger lines.

Step 3: Managing the Spread and Making Turns

With your spread deployed, vigilant management is key. When making a turn, you must do so in a wide, slow, sweeping arc. During a turn, the outside lines will speed up and travel farther, while the inside lines will slow down and drop deeper. A sharp turn will cause the inside lines to tangle with the outside lines, creating a mess. Always be aware of where every lure is.

Reading the Boards and Fighting the Fish

A planer board is also a strike indicator.

A Bite: A hard strike from a large fish will often pull the board backward in the water or even pull it completely under. Sometimes the line will pop free from the clip (on a mast system or with certain in-line clips), and the board will stop pulling hard.
A Small Fish or Fouled Lure: If the board stops tracking correctly, seems sluggish, or isn’t riding high, you may have a small fish on or your lure could be fouled with debris. It’s often best to reel it in and check.

When a fish strikes a planer board line:

Grab the rod and begin reeling steadily. Don’t pump the rod; just apply smooth, even pressure.
The forward motion of the boat combined with your reeling will cause the board to track inwards towards the boat.
As the board gets close, you can either unclip it from the line and continue fighting the fish, or simply slide it down the line as you reel the fish in.
It’s crucial to clear other lines if the fish makes a strong run towards the center of the spread to avoid tangles.

Fighting a fish on a downrigger line is more straightforward. The line pops free from the clip, and you fight the fish directly, clear of any heavy hardware. Your main job is to steer the fish away from the other lines still in the water.

In conclusion, the fusion of planer boards and downriggers offers an unparalleled system for trolling. It allows the thinking angler to present a massive, multi-dimensional offering that covers more water, presents lures with stealth, and effectively targets fish across different depths and horizontal positions. While it demands organization, practice, and attention to detail, the effectiveness of this combined system is undeniable, unlocking a level of trolling efficiency that few other methods can match.

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Electric Downrigger Head-to-Head: Cannon vs. Scotty vs. Big Jon

Cannon: Clearly positions itself as the technology leader. The Optimum series boasts features like wireless networking (One-Boat Network), integration with Humminbird fish finders and a mobile app, a full-color LCD screen, and adjustable retrieval speeds up to 250 ft/min. They also heavily market their “Positive Ion Control.” The construction is a mix of composite and stainless steel, with the Tournament Series (TS) models featuring more stainless components for saltwater use. Weight capacity is consistently 20 lbs.
Scotty: The main competitor to Cannon, focusing on speed, durability, and reliability. Their High Performance (HP) models, like the 2116, are touted as the fastest on the market, with retrieval speeds of 295 ft/min with a 15 lb weight and 260 ft/min with a 20 lb weight. They emphasize their heavy-duty build, use of stainless steel booms, Kevlar drive belts, and a reliable clutch/brake system for deployment. Scotty’s customer service and parts availability are frequently praised by users, especially in the Pacific Northwest.
Big Jon: This brand appears to focus on rugged, simple, and durable construction. Their flagship models, like the Pro Tournament, are made with “aircraft-grade aluminum” with an anodized finish. Their retrieval speed is slower than the top models from Cannon and Scotty, at around 120 ft/min with a 12 lb weight. They emphasize features like their adjustable disc clutch and multi-set rod holders. Big Jon seems to be the “heavy-duty, no-frills” option.
Penn: Information on Penn’s electric downriggers is comparatively sparse. The classic Fathom-Master models (like the 625) are primarily known as robust manual downriggers. There are third-party companies, like Elec-Tra-Mate, that manufacture powerful electric drive conversion kits for these popular Penn models. These conversions can be incredibly fast, with speeds claimed to be over 300 ft/min. However, this is not a factory electric downrigger from Penn itself. For the purpose of this comparison, I will have to position Penn as a brand whose popular manual models are frequently converted to electric, rather than a direct competitor in the integrated electric downrigger space like Cannon and Scotty.

Key Comparison Points Gathered:

Retrieval Speed: Scotty HP models are the fastest (260-295 ft/min), followed by Cannon Optimum (250 ft/min), then Big Jon (120 ft/min). Penn conversions can be extremely fast (300+ ft/min).
Technology & Integration: Cannon is the undisputed leader here with its One-Boat Network, full-color screen, and app control. Scotty has digital counters and auto-stop but lacks the deep integration of Cannon. Big Jon and Penn (as stock manuals) are mechanically focused.
Construction: All brands are well-regarded for durability. Big Jon uses anodized aluminum, Scotty uses a mix of composite and stainless steel, and Cannon uses composite with stainless options. User reviews suggest Scotty has a reputation for being particularly robust and easy to repair.
Deployment: A key difference noted by users is that Cannon models often have powered up and down, while Scotty uses a clutch/brake system for a gravity-based drop, which many users prefer for its speed and control.
Positive Ion Control: This feature, which aims to neutralize the boat’s negative energy field, is exclusive to Cannon.

I have sufficient information to proceed with writing a detailed head-to-head comparison. I can now structure the article as planned, using the specific model names and technical data I have found.

DISCLAIMER: As of my last update, Penn does not offer a widely marketed, fully integrated electric downrigger comparable to the flagship models from Cannon, Scotty, and Big Jon. Penn’s reputation lies in their durable manual downriggers, such as the Fathom-Master series, which are often converted to electric units by third-party manufacturers like Elec-Tra-Mate. Therefore, this comparison will focus on the factory-electric models from Cannon, Scotty, and Big Jon, with a concluding section on the Penn conversion option.

In the world of controlled-depth trolling, the electric downrigger is an indispensable tool. It allows anglers to present lures at precise depths where fish are holding, revolutionizing the pursuit of species like salmon, trout, and walleye. Four names consistently rise to the top of the conversation: Cannon, Scotty, Big Jon, and Penn. This head-to-head comparison dives deep into the technical features, retrieval speeds, and core philosophies of these industry giants to help you determine the best fit for your vessel and fishing style.

Retrieval Speed: The Race to the Surface

For many anglers, the most critical performance metric is retrieval speed. A fast downrigger clears lines quickly when a fish is on, reduces the time spent resetting gear, and helps avoid underwater hangs.

Winner: Scotty The Scotty High Performance series (like the 2106 and 2116 models) stands as the undisputed speed champion. Boasting retrieval rates of 295 feet per minute (FPM) with a 15-pound weight and a still-blistering 260 FPM with a 20-pound weight, Scotty gets your gear up faster than any other factory model on the market. This is achieved through a powerful 12-volt motor and a robust Kevlar drive belt system.
Runner-Up: Cannon Cannon’s flagship Optimum series is no slouch, retrieving weights at a consistent 250 FPM. While slightly slower than Scotty’s top speed, this is still exceptionally fast and more than enough for any trolling application. Cannon also offers the unique ability to adjust the retrieval speed through its digital interface, allowing anglers to slow it down if desired.
Contender: Big Jon Big Jon’s Pro Tournament electric downriggers are built with a focus on torque and durability over raw speed. Their retrieval rate is a more modest 120 FPM with a 12-pound weight. While significantly slower than its main competitors, this speed is reliable and gets the job done without placing undue stress on the electrical system.

Head-to-Head Technical Feature Analysis

Beyond speed, a host of technical features differentiate these brands.

Feature	Cannon (Optimum Series)	Scotty (High Performance Series)	Big Jon (Pro Tournament)
Max Retrieval Speed	250 FPM	295 FPM	120 FPM
Construction	Composite Body, Stainless Boom	Composite Body, Stainless Boom	Anodized Aluminum Body & Boom
Deployment	Power Down	Clutch/Brake Gravity Drop	Adjustable Disc Clutch Drop
Advanced Tech	One-Boat Network, Color LCD, App Control, Bottom Tracking, Positive Ion Control	Digital Counter, Auto Stop	Auto-Stop, Adjustable Disc Clutch
Weight Capacity	20 lbs	20 lbs	12 lbs (rated)
Country of Origin	USA	Canada	USA

Export to Sheets

Deep Dive by Brand

Cannon: The Technology Leader

If your boat is a modern, connected machine, Cannon is likely your brand. The Optimum series is built to integrate seamlessly into a larger fishing system.

One-Boat Network™: This is Cannon’s killer feature. It allows up to four Optimum downriggers to be wirelessly networked together and controlled from a compatible Humminbird fish finder, the downrigger’s full-color LCD screen, or even a mobile app. You can raise, lower, and cycle all your weights from the captain’s chair.
Positive Ion Control (PIC): A feature exclusive to Cannon, PIC emits a field of positive ions down the downrigger cable. The theory is that this neutralizes the negative energy field created by the boat’s hull and electronics, making the lure presentation more attractive to fish.
Advanced Features: With features like Bottom Tracking (which keeps your weight a set distance from the bottom), Depth Cycling (which automatically moves your lure up and down through a set range), and five adjustable retrieval speeds, the Optimum is a tinkerer’s dream.
Downside: The complexity and reliance on digital systems can be a potential point of failure for some anglers who prefer mechanical simplicity. The power-down deployment is also a point of contention; some users prefer the faster, gravity-based drop of a clutch system.

Scotty: The Speed and Durability King

Built in British Columbia, Scotty downriggers are renowned in the Pacific Northwest and beyond for their rugged construction and straightforward, reliable performance.

Unmatched Speed: As mentioned, the High Performance models are the fastest you can buy.
Robust Build: Scotty uses heavy-duty components, stainless steel booms, and powerful, low-draw motors coupled with Kevlar belts. Their reputation for being able to withstand years of harsh saltwater abuse is well-earned.
Superior Deployment System: The Scotty clutch/brake system is universally praised. It allows for a one-handed, ultra-fast gravity drop that gives the angler precise control over the cannonball’s descent.
Service and Parts: User feedback consistently highlights that Scotty’s customer service and the wide availability of replacement parts make them easy to own and maintain for the long haul.
Downside: While they feature digital line counters and an excellent Auto Stop system (using stopper beads), they lack the deep electronic integration and advanced features of the Cannon Optimum.

Big Jon: The All-Metal Workhorse

Big Jon has a loyal following among anglers who prioritize robust, all-metal construction and proven, no-frills design over high-tech features and blistering speed.

Aircraft-Grade Aluminum: Where competitors use composite bodies, Big Jon machines their downriggers from aircraft-grade aluminum and gives them a protective anodized finish. This makes them incredibly strong and corrosion-resistant.
Adjustable Disc Clutch: Their reliable and powerful disc clutch system allows for controlled, smooth deployment and can handle heavy use.
Simplicity and Reliability: With fewer complex electronics, there are fewer potential points of failure. Big Jon downriggers are designed to work consistently for decades with minimal maintenance.
Downside: The most significant drawbacks are the slower retrieval speed and the lack of advanced digital features found on competing models. The line counters are functional but mechanical, not backlit digital displays.

The Penn Option: The Conversion Powerhouse

While Penn currently does not produce a factory-integrated electric model to compete directly with the others, their Fathom-Master manual downriggers are so durable and popular that a niche market has thrived on converting them. Companies like Elec-Tra-Mate offer powerful 12-volt drive kits that bolt directly onto a Penn 625 Fathom-Master. These conversions are known for incredible power and retrieval speeds that can exceed 300 FPM, making them a fantastic option for anglers who want extreme performance and may already own a set of Penn manual riggers.

Conclusion: Choosing Your Weapon

For the Tech-Savvy Angler: If you run a modern boat with integrated electronics and want unparalleled control over your trolling spread from anywhere on the vessel, the Cannon Optimum is the clear choice.
For the Speed-Focused and Reliability-Driven Angler: If your top priorities are getting your gear up as fast as possible and having a robust, easily serviceable unit that will last a lifetime, the Scotty High Performance series is your best bet.
For the Traditionalist Who Values Raw Strength: If you prefer all-metal construction and a simple, powerful design that is built to be a lifelong workhorse, the Big Jon Pro Tournament will not disappoint.

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The Ultimate Angler’s Advantage: Cannon’s Optimum Downrigger

For the serious angler dedicated to the art of trolling, precision and control are the names of the game. In the quest for trophy fish, the ability to consistently place your lure in the strike zone is paramount. Enter the Cannon Optimum Downrigger, a marvel of modern fishing technology that transcends the role of a simple weight deployer. This isn’t just a downrigger; it’s the intelligent hub of your trolling operation, a wirelessly connected powerhouse that offers unparalleled control and real-time data to revolutionize your approach to deep-water fishing.

This in-depth guide will explore every facet of the Cannon Optimum, from its cutting-edge features to the practical know-how needed to harness its full potential on the water. Whether you’re a seasoned salmon chaser on the Great Lakes or a coastal angler targeting pelagic species, the Optimum is designed to elevate your fishing experience from a game of chance to a calculated science.

Unveiling the Arsenal: Key Features of the Cannon Optimum

The Cannon Optimum is packed with a suite of features that work in concert to provide a seamless and informed trolling experience. Here’s a breakdown of the technological advancements that set it apart:

Full-Color 3.5″ LCD Display: The vibrant, sunlight-readable screen is your command center. It offers customizable views, allowing you to prioritize the data that matters most to you, from depth and temperature to trolling speed. With both day and night modes, you’ll have a clear view of your downrigger’s status in any lighting condition.

Wireless Integration and the One-Boat Network: This is arguably the Optimum’s most transformative feature. Through the power of Bluetooth, you can:

Network up to four Optimum downriggers: Control all your lines from a single master unit, your Humminbird fish finder, or your mobile device.
Connect to a compatible Humminbird fish finder: This creates a truly integrated system. View and control your downrigger’s depth, retrieve weights, and even see sonar data directly on your main sonar screen.
Utilize the Cannon mobile app: Gain the freedom to control your downriggers from anywhere on your boat. This is especially handy for making quick adjustments while attending to other tasks.

Precision Depth Control: The Optimum offers a suite of automated features to keep your bait exactly where it needs to be:

Preset Depths: Program up to five of your most productive depths for quick and easy deployment. The unit also remembers the depth of your last catch.
Depth Cycle: Entice strikes from suspended or hesitant fish by automatically cycling your weight up and down at preset intervals and distances.
Bottom Tracking: When paired with a compatible transducer, the Optimum can automatically adjust the depth of your weight to maintain a set distance from the bottom, which is invaluable when fishing over uneven terrain.

Positive Ion Control (PIC): This innovative feature aims to combat the natural negative energy field that can be generated by a boat’s electrical systems, which some believe can repel fish. By emitting positive ions from the downrigger cable, PIC is designed to create a more attractive environment around your lure.

Waterline Zero and Short Stop: These safety and convenience features prevent your downrigger weight from swinging wildly and potentially damaging your boat or the downrigger itself. Waterline Zero automatically stops the weight at a preset distance below the waterline, while Short Stop halts retrieval as soon as the weight breaks the surface.

Adjustable Speeds: With five adjustable retrieve and deploy speeds, reaching up to a swift 250 feet per minute, you have complete control over how quickly you get your lines in and out of the water.

Robust Construction: The Optimum is built to withstand the harsh marine environment. It features a heavy-duty telescopic boom that extends from 24 to 53 inches, a durable composite or stainless steel spool (depending on the model), and dual-axis adjustable rod holders.

Fish Hawk™ X4D Integration: For the ultimate in trolling data, the Optimum can wirelessly connect to a Fish Hawk X4D system (sold separately). This provides you with the true depth, temperature, and speed of your lure at the weight, giving you a precise understanding of what’s happening below the surface.

Mastering the Machine: A Guide to Using Your Cannon Optimum

Understanding the features is one thing; effectively using them on the water is another. Here’s a practical guide to getting the most out of your Cannon Optimum:

Getting Started: The Keypad and Menus

The intuitive keypad provides quick access to the Optimum’s core functions:

POWER: Turns the unit on and off and accesses the Power Menu for quick adjustments like screen brightness.
UP/DOWN Arrows: Manually raise or lower the downrigger weight. These also serve to navigate through menu options.
AUTO UP: With a single press, automatically retrieves the weight to the Waterline Zero or Short Stop position. A long press initiates an “Auto Up All” for all networked downriggers.
MENU: A single press opens the Quick Menu for the current view, while a double press opens the main Settings Menu.
PRESET DEPTHS: Access your pre-programmed depths and the last catch depth.
LEFT/RIGHT Arrows: Make selections and adjustments within the menus.
EXIT: Closes the current menu.

Setting Up Your Network

Pairing Downriggers: Designate one unit as the “master.” On this unit, navigate to the Bluetooth settings and select “Pair Downrigger.” On the “client” downrigger you wish to pair, also go to the Bluetooth settings and select “Pair to Bluetooth Master.” The units will then connect. Repeat this process for up to four downriggers.
Connecting to Humminbird: Ensure your Humminbird unit has the latest software. On your fish finder, navigate to the Network menu and select “Bluetooth.” Your Cannon Optimum should appear as a discoverable device. Select it to pair.
Pairing Your Mobile Device: Download the Cannon app on your smartphone or tablet. In the app, you’ll be prompted to search for and connect to your Optimum downrigger via Bluetooth.

Putting the Precision Features to Work

Setting Preset Depths: From the main menu, go to “Preset Depths.” You can then manually enter and save up to five depths that you frequently fish.
Using Depth Cycle: In the Quick Menu, select “Depth Cycle.” You can then set the cycle range (e.g., 5 feet) and the interval. The downrigger will then automatically raise and lower your weight by that distance at the specified interval. This is an excellent tactic for triggering reaction strikes.
Engaging Bottom Tracking: Once your Optimum is connected to a compatible transducer, you can access “Bottom Tracking” from the Quick Menu. Set the desired offset from the bottom (e.g., 10 feet), and the downrigger will automatically adjust to maintain that distance as the bottom contour changes.

A Typical Day on the Water with the Optimum

Imagine a morning trolling for salmon. You start by powering on your networked Optimum downriggers. From your Humminbird’s screen, you deploy all your weights simultaneously with a single command. You notice on your fish finder that you’re marking fish consistently at 80 feet, so you quickly select your “80 feet” preset on your master downrigger, and all your lines descend to the strike zone.

Later in the day, the bite slows. You decide to try and trigger a reaction. You engage Depth Cycle on your two outside downriggers, setting them to cycle up and down by 7 feet every two minutes. A short while later, one of the cycling rods buries. After a successful fight, you use the “Last Catch Depth” feature to send your lure right back to the productive spot.

As you troll over a point, you activate Bottom Tracking to keep your inside lines just off the bottom without having to constantly make manual adjustments, preventing snags and keeping your presentation perfect. When it’s time to head in, a single long press of the “Auto Up All” button brings all your weights smoothly to the surface, ready for stowing.

Keeping Your Investment in Top Shape: Maintenance and Care

To ensure your Cannon Optimum provides years of reliable service, regular maintenance is key:

Rinse After Every Use: Especially in saltwater environments, thoroughly rinse the entire downrigger with fresh water to remove salt and debris.
Inspect the Cable: Regularly check your downrigger cable for any signs of fraying or kinking. Replace it if you find any damage to prevent losing a weight and potential damage to the unit.
Check Electrical Connections: Ensure that all power connections are clean, tight, and free of corrosion. Apply a dielectric grease to the connections to help prevent future corrosion.
Lubricate Moving Parts: Lightly lubricate the boom and swivel head periodically with a marine-grade lubricant to ensure smooth operation.
Storage: During the off-season, if possible, store your downriggers in a dry, protected environment.

The Cannon Optimum downrigger is more than just a piece of equipment; it’s a strategic partner in your pursuit of fish. By taking the time to understand its powerful features and how to apply them, you can transform your trolling efforts, making every trip on the water more efficient, more informed, and ultimately, more successful.

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Shock Absorption on the Troll: The Critical Role of Downrigger Snubbers

In the world of controlled-depth trolling, the downrigger is king. This ingenious device allows anglers to present a lure at a precise, repeatable depth, targeting fish that would otherwise be unreachable. The system, in its basic form, is a model of efficiency: a heavy cannonball weight, a thin steel cable, and a release clip. Yet, it is within this simple, strong system that a significant problem arises—shock. The solution is a small, often overlooked, but critically important component: the downrigger snubber.

This detailed article explores the function of downrigger snubbers, outlining why they are needed and presenting the compelling arguments for and against their use in your trolling setup.

The Problem: The Unyielding Nature of a Trolling System

To understand the need for a snubber, one must first appreciate the immense and unforgiving forces at play during trolling. A downrigger system is comprised of components that, by design, have virtually no stretch or give.

The Steel Cable: The wire or braided line connecting the cannonball to the downrigger spool is designed for strength and thinness to cut through the water. It has almost zero elasticity.
The Downrigger Boom: This is a rigid arm, typically made of aluminum or stainless steel, built to withstand the heavy load of the cannonball.
The Boat and Mount: The downrigger is bolted to the gunwale of the boat, a solid, unmoving point.

When your boat moves through the water, especially in anything but perfectly calm conditions, this rigid system is subjected to constant, violent stress. Every wave the boat crests and crashes over, every sharp turn, and every sudden change in trolling speed sends a shockwave through the system. The heavy cannonball lurches, and because the steel cable cannot stretch, that instantaneous jolt is transferred directly up the line to the boom tip, through the downrigger itself, and into the boat’s frame. This creates several significant problems that a snubber is designed to solve.

The Case For Using a Downrigger Snubber

A downrigger snubber is, in essence, a purpose-built shock absorber. Typically constructed from high-quality, UV-resistant rubber or urethane, it is attached between the end of the downrigger cable and the cannonball. Its simple function—to stretch and compress—provides a host of benefits that can protect your gear, improve your fishing success, and make for a more pleasant experience on the water.

1. Protection of Your Downrigger Equipment

This is arguably the most important reason to use a snubber. The constant, jarring shock transferred up a bare cable puts immense strain on your entire downrigger assembly.

Boom Stress: The boom takes the brunt of this force. Over time, these repeated shocks can lead to stress fractures in the metal, particularly at welds and pivot points. A catastrophic boom failure is a real possibility under heavy use without a snubber.
Internal Components: The shock doesn’t stop at the boom. It travels into the downrigger’s clutch, gears, and spool, accelerating wear and tear on these critical internal parts.
Gunwale and Mount Integrity: The force is ultimately transferred to the boat itself. This can cause the downrigger mount to loosen over time, stress the boat’s gunwale, and in extreme cases, lead to gelcoat or fiberglass damage. A snubber acts as the first line of defense, absorbing the majority of this shock before it can ever reach your expensive equipment. It is a small, sacrificial piece of gear that protects a much larger investment.

2. Prevention of False Releases

For any troller, the “false release” is a moment of pure frustration. This occurs when the shock of the cannonball jerking causes the fishing line to pop out of the release clip prematurely. The angler, unaware of the release, may continue trolling for minutes or even hours, dragging a lure at an unknown and ineffective depth. The telltale sign is the frustrating ritual of reeling in a line only to find the lure has been uselessly swimming near the surface.

By smoothing out the ride of the cannonball, a snubber dramatically reduces the sudden jerks that cause false releases. It keeps the lure at the intended depth and ensures the only thing that pops the line from the clip is the strike of a fish. This directly translates to more time fishing effectively and, ultimately, more fish in the boat.

3. Enhanced Lure Presentation

Fish are highly attuned to unnatural movements. A cannonball that is jerking and surging through the water imparts that same erratic action to the lure trailing behind it. While some erratic action can be a strike trigger, the violent, non-rhythmic motion caused by wave shock is often detrimental, making a lure appear unnatural and unappealing.

A snubber allows the cannonball, and by extension your lure, to track more smoothly and naturally through the water. It creates a more fluid swimming action that is far more enticing to predatory fish, leading to more confident strikes.

4. Reduced Cable Stress and Vibration

A taut steel cable under load acts like a giant guitar string. As it cuts through the water, it can begin to vibrate and hum. This underwater noise can be off-putting to wary fish, especially in clear water. Furthermore, the constant shock loading on the cable itself can cause it to fatigue, leading to premature fraying, kinking, and failure.

The snubber dampens these vibrations, creating a stealthier underwater profile. It also absorbs the sharpest shocks, extending the usable life of your downrigger cable, saving you the time and expense of re-spooling.

The Case Against Using a Downrigger Snubber

While the benefits are compelling, some anglers, particularly seasoned veterans, choose not to use snubbers. Their reasoning is based on a few specific counterarguments.

1. Reduced Feedback and “Feel”

The primary argument against a snubber is that it introduces a “mushy” or dampened feeling into the system. An angler running a bare cable can feel the cannonball’s every move. They can use the angle of the cable and the tension—a concept known as “blowback”—to get a very precise feel for the cannonball’s true depth and how it’s tracking. A snubber, by its very nature, absorbs some of this tactile feedback, which some anglers find disconcerting. They prefer the direct, rigid connection and are willing to manage the risks to maintain that feel.

2. An Additional Point of Failure

Any time a new component is added to a system, it represents one more potential point of failure. A low-quality, old, or sun-rotted snubber can break. If it does, the result is the instant loss of your cannonball and any attached terminal hardware. Proponents of the bare-cable approach argue that the direct connection from cable to cannonball is simpler and stronger. However, this risk can be almost entirely mitigated by using high-quality snubbers and inspecting them for cracks or fatigue at the start of each season.

Conclusion: An Essential Piece of Insurance

When weighing the pros and cons, the verdict for the vast majority of anglers is clear. The downrigger snubber is not a gimmick; it is an essential piece of equipment that offers far more benefits than drawbacks.

You should absolutely use a downrigger snubber if you:

Fish in large bodies of water prone to waves and chop.
Use heavy cannonballs (10 pounds or more).
Want to protect your investment in downriggers, mounts, and even the boat itself.
Have ever been frustrated by false releases.
Want to ensure the most natural and effective lure presentation.

You might consider not using a snubber if you fish exclusively on small, protected bodies of water with no wave action, use extremely light weights, and prioritize direct tactile feedback above all else.

For a minimal cost, a downrigger snubber provides invaluable insurance. It protects hundreds or thousands of dollars in gear, increases your fishing efficiency, and may very well be the difference between a day of frustration and a successful day on the water. It is a small component that punches well above its weight, absorbing the chaos of the troll so you can focus on the fish.

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A Guide to Using a Scotty Electric Downrigger

For anglers looking to consistently target fish holding at specific, often deep, water columns, the downrigger is an indispensable tool. It offers unparalleled precision in depth control, allowing you to present your lure exactly where the fish are. Among the most trusted names in the game is Scotty, whose electric downriggers are renowned for their robust construction, reliability, and user-friendly design.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through every aspect of using a Scotty Electric Downrigger, from initial setup and rigging to advanced on-the-water techniques, maintenance, and safety. By the end of this article, you’ll have the knowledge to master this powerful fishing tool and unlock new depths in your angling success.

Part 1: Anatomy of a Scotty Electric Downrigger

Before diving into the “how-to,” it’s crucial to understand the key components of your Scotty downrigger. Familiarizing yourself with these parts will make operation intuitive and troubleshooting easier.

The Boom: This is the long arm, typically made of stainless steel or composite material, that extends out over the water. Booms come in various lengths, with longer booms offering more separation from the boat to avoid spooking fish. Many models feature telescopic booms for adjustable length.
The Spool and Cable: The spool holds the downrigger cable, which is most commonly braided stainless steel or, increasingly, a heavy-test braided fishing line (which eliminates hum and static). This cable is what carries your weight and fishing line down to the desired depth.
The Motor and Gear System: Housed within the main body, the powerful electric motor drives the gear system, allowing for the effortless retrieval of the heavy downrigger weight with the simple press of a button.
The Depth Counter: This mechanical or digital counter is a critical component, displaying the exact amount of cable you have paid out. This allows for pinpoint accuracy when targeting fish you’ve marked on your sonar.
The Clutch/Brake System: This is one of the most important operational controls. The brake allows you to control the speed of the weight’s descent. A smooth, consistent drop is key to preventing line tangles. It should be tight enough to hold the weight in place but loose enough to allow for a controlled drop when you want it.
The Base and Mount: Scotty offers a variety of mounting options, from permanent pedestal mounts to versatile track and gimbal mounts. The tilt-up feature on many models is a significant convenience for docking, trailering, or clearing the deck.
The Swivel Head: The boom pivots on the base, allowing you to swing the downrigger in for easier rigging and then out into its fishing position.
The Auto-Stop System: A hallmark of Scotty electrics, this feature automatically stops the weight’s retrieval just below the water’s surface, preventing the weight from crashing into the boom tip (a common and damaging operator error). This is achieved via beads on the cable that trip a switch on the pulley.
The Pulley/Snubber: Located at the end of the boom, the pulley ensures the cable runs smoothly. Often, a rubber “snubber” is attached between the cable and the weight. This acts as a shock absorber, protecting the cable from the jarring stress of wave action and boat movement.
The Release Clip: This is the crucial link between your fishing line and the downrigger cable. It’s designed to hold your fishing line securely as it’s lowered but to “release” it when a fish strikes, allowing you to fight the fish directly on your rod and reel, free from the heavy weight.

Part 2: Rigging Your Downrigger from Scratch

Proper rigging is the foundation of effective and trouble-free downrigging.

Step 1: Spooling the Cable

If you’re starting with an empty spool, you’ll need to load it with either stainless steel wire or heavy-test braid (200-250 lb test is common).

Feed the Line: Feed the end of the cable through the fairlead or pulley at the end of the boom first, then bring it back to the spool. This prevents having to un-spool everything if you forget.
Secure to Spool: Securely tie the cable to the spool using a robust knot.
Apply Tension: Spool the cable onto the reel under firm tension. This is a two-person job. One person should operate the downrigger’s retrieve switch (or manually crank if it’s a manual model) while the other holds the cable with a heavy glove or cloth, ensuring it lays tightly and evenly across the spool. A loose wrap can cause the cable to dig into itself, leading to jams and kinks.

Step 2: Terminating the Cable

Once spooled, you need to set up the terminal end.

Slide on Auto-Stop Beads: Slide your auto-stop beads onto the cable.
Attach the Stopper/Crimps: Feed the cable through the sleeves of your terminal fastener (this is often a series of crimps and a snap).
Attach the Snubber: Clip a high-quality rubber snubber onto the snap at the end of your cable. The snubber is critical for absorbing shock and should not be omitted.
Attach the Weight: Connect your downrigger weight (or “cannonball”) to the other end of the snubber. Weights typically range from 8 to 15 pounds, depending on the depth you’re fishing and your trolling speed. Heavier weights track more vertically with less “blowback.”

Step 3: Choosing and Attaching the Release Clip

Your release clip attaches to the downrigger cable, usually just above the snubber or weight. Scotty offers several types:

Standard Pinch-Pad Releases: These are simple and effective. You pinch your fishing line between two pads. Tension is adjusted by how deep you set the line in the pads.
Stacker Releases: These clips have a loop or snap that allows them to be attached anywhere on the main downrigger cable, enabling you to fish multiple lines off a single downrigger (a technique called “stacking”).

Part 3: On-the-Water Operation: A Step-by-Step Guide

With your boat at trolling speed and your gear ready, here’s how to deploy and use your Scotty Electric Downrigger.

Step 1: Get to Trolling Speed. Before deploying anything, get your boat moving at your desired trolling speed. This is crucial as it creates tension and separation, preventing tangles.

Step 2: Let Out Your Lure. With your fishing rod in hand, let out your lure behind the boat. A standard setback is 100 feet, but this can vary greatly depending on water clarity, fish species, and lure type.

Step 3: Attach the Line to the Release Clip.

Hold your fishing rod high to create a belly of line.
Grab the fishing line and create a small loop by twisting it.
Place this loop into the release clip. For pinch-pad style clips, set it just deep enough to hold securely.

Step 4: Deploy the Downrigger Weight.

Ensure the boom is swiveled out to its fishing position.
Hold your fishing rod with one hand to manage slack.
With your other hand, turn the clutch/brake knob counter-clockwise just enough to allow the weight to begin a smooth, controlled descent. Do not let it free-spool, as this can cause tangles and puts unnecessary stress on the system.
As the weight descends, it will pull your fishing line down with it. Pay close attention to your rod tip; it will bend over and start to throb as the lure works.

Step 5: Set the Depth.

Watch the depth counter. When it reaches your target depth (e.g., the depth you marked fish on your sonar), tighten the clutch/brake by turning it clockwise until the weight stops descending.
Place your fishing rod in a holder. Reel in any slack until the rod has a moderate, steady bend in it. This pre-load is critical for ensuring a clean release when a fish strikes.

Step 6: The Strike and the Release. When a fish hits your lure, its weight and struggle will pop the line out of the release clip. Your rod, which was bent over under tension, will snap straight up. This is your signal to grab the rod and fight the fish! The fish is now completely free from the downrigger system.

Step 7: Retrieving the Weight. After landing your fish (or if you simply want to check your lure), retrieve the downrigger weight.

Simply press and hold the “UP” switch on your Scotty.
The motor will engage and bring the weight up.
Thanks to the auto-stop feature, the retrieval will automatically cease once the stopper bead reaches the switch, leaving your weight just under the surface, ready to be re-rigged.

Part 4: Advanced Techniques and Strategies

Understanding Blowback: At trolling speeds, water resistance pushes the weight back and up, meaning your lure is not as deep as your counter indicates. This effect, known as “blowback,” increases with speed and depth. Heavier weights minimize blowback. Experience and observing your lure’s true depth on a quality sonar are the best ways to learn to compensate for it.
Stacking Lines: This technique allows you to fish two (or even more) lines off a single downrigger. You attach your first line to the primary release clip near the weight. Then, you lower the weight 10-20 feet. You then attach a “stacker” release clip directly to the downrigger cable, attach your second fishing line to it, and continue lowering both to your final target depth. This allows you to present lures at two different depths simultaneously.
Targeting Temperature (Thermocline): Many game fish, like salmon and trout, relate heavily to specific water temperatures. Use a fish finder with a temperature sensor to locate the thermocline (the transition layer between warmer surface water and cooler deep water) and use your downrigger to precisely target your lures in this productive zone.

Part 5: Maintenance and Safety

Freshwater Rinse: Always rinse your downrigger, especially the cable and electrical connections, with fresh water after every use in saltwater.
Check Electrical Connections: Periodically inspect your power cable and plug for corrosion. A light coat of dielectric grease can help prevent this.
Inspect the Cable: Regularly check your downrigger cable for kinks or frays, which can weaken it significantly. Replace a damaged cable immediately.
Safety First: Never wear loose clothing, necklaces, or have loose line on the deck that could get caught in the moving cable or spool. When the downrigger is operating, keep your hands clear of the spool and cable.

By integrating a Scotty Electric Downrigger into your fishing arsenal and mastering its operation, you are no longer limited to the upper layers of the water. You have the power to explore the deep, to place your offering on the doorstep of fish that were previously out of reach, and to become a far more precise and successful angler.

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The Angler’s Circuit: A Detailed Guide to Troubleshooting the Cannon Autostop Feature

For the modern trolling angler, the Cannon Autostop feature is more than a convenience; it’s a critical tool for gear protection and efficient operation. This ingenious system automatically halts the downrigger’s retrieve just as the weight, or “cannonball,” reaches the surface, preventing it from crashing into the boom end and causing damage to the cable, pulley, or the downrigger itself. However, when this feature fails, it can be both frustrating and costly. This detailed guide will walk you through the inner workings of the Autostop system and provide a comprehensive, step-by-step process for troubleshooting and resolving any issues you encounter.

Understanding the Magic: How Autostop Works

Before you can fix the system, you must understand how it functions. The Cannon Autostop system is a clever application of a simple electrical circuit. It doesn’t rely on mechanical switches or sensors on the boom. Instead, it uses the downrigger cable and the water itself to complete a low-voltage circuit.

Here are the key components and the principle behind them:

The Negative Path: The downrigger cable (which must be stainless steel) is connected to the negative side of the downrigger’s electrical system.
The Positive Path: The water your boat is in acts as the positive conductor. Through the boat’s common ground and the downrigger’s wiring, the water is held at a positive potential relative to the cable.
The Circuit: When the conductive downrigger cable is submerged in the water, a complete electrical circuit is formed. The control board inside the downrigger detects this completed circuit.
The Insulator: A small, non-conductive bead, typically made of black plastic or vinyl, is crimped onto the downrigger cable a few feet above the weight. This is the Autostop Insulator Bead.
Breaking the Circuit: As you retrieve the downrigger weight, the cable is pulled out of the water. The moment the Insulator Bead clears the water’s surface, the conductive path is broken because the section of cable still in the water is now electrically isolated from the downrigger by the bead. The control board instantly detects this interruption in the circuit and cuts power to the motor, stopping the retrieve.

This same principle is what drives Cannon’s “Positive Ion Control” (PIC) feature, which is designed to attract fish by creating a positive electrical field around the boat. The Autostop is essentially a secondary function of this core electrical design.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting: From Simple Fixes to Deep Dives

When your Autostop fails, the problem is almost always a failure to complete or properly break the electrical circuit. Follow these steps methodically, starting with the most common and easiest-to-fix issues.

Step 1: The Basics – Operator Error and Obvious Issues

Before tearing anything apart, ensure the issue isn’t a simple oversight.

Is the Feature On? On some models, especially digital ones like the Digi-Troll, the Autostop feature can be toggled on or off in the settings menu. Consult your user manual to confirm it is enabled.
Is the Insulator Bead Present and Positioned Correctly? The bead is the lynchpin of the entire system.
- Presence: Has the bead broken off or been removed? You must have one crimped onto the cable.
- Position: The bead should be positioned on the cable so that it exits the water when the cannonball is at your desired stopping depth (typically just below the surface). If it’s too high up the cable, the weight will hit the boom long before the bead leaves the water. If it’s too close to the weight, the motor may stop too soon. A common starting point is 6 to 8 feet above the weight.
Is the Bead Damaged? Inspect the bead for cracks. If it’s cracked, water can seep in and maintain conductivity, preventing the circuit from breaking. Also, ensure it’s clean and not coated in metallic residue or conductive slime.

Step 2: The Circuit’s Foundation – Power and Ground

A faulty power supply or poor ground connection can cause a host of electrical gremlins, including Autostop failure.

Check Power Connections: Ensure the main power plug is securely connected to the downrigger base and that the contacts are clean and free of corrosion. Use a wire brush or contact cleaner if necessary.
Verify the Boat-Side Connection: Inspect the wiring from the downrigger’s receptacle back to the battery or fuse panel. Look for loose connections, frayed wires, or corrosion on terminals. The downrigger must have a solid connection to both the positive and negative terminals of your battery.
Confirm a Common Ground: The downrigger must be connected to the boat’s common ground. This means the negative wire from the downrigger should ultimately connect to the same negative bus bar or battery terminal as all your other electronics. Without a proper ground, the water cannot act as the positive side of the circuit relative to the cable.

Step 3: Inspecting the Conductive Path

If the basics check out, the next step is to trace the electrical path from the spool to the water.

The Spool Connection: This is one of the most common failure points. The downrigger cable must be electrically connected to the downrigger’s internal wiring via the spool.
- Take the side plate off the downrigger to access the spool.
- You will see that the downrigger cable is not tied directly to the plastic spool hub. Instead, it should be attached to a stainless steel band or terminal screw on the inside of the spool. This band is what makes contact with the downrigger’s internal electrical brushes.
- Action: Ensure this connection is clean and tight. Look for corrosion between the cable termination and the stainless steel band. Remove the connection, clean both the cable loop and the terminal with a wire brush or sandpaper, and re-secure it firmly.
The Cable Itself: The system requires a conductive stainless steel cable. If you have recently re-spooled with a non-conductive cable, such as a coated wire or heavy monofilament, the system will not work.
The Water’s Conductivity: In extremely pure, low-mineral freshwater, the water’s conductivity can be very low, sometimes making the Autostop feature intermittent. This is rare but possible. If you suspect this is the case, the issue may be resolved by ensuring your Positive Ion Control is functioning correctly and all connections are pristine to maximize the electrical potential.

Step 4: The Bench Test – Isolating the Problem

If you’re still having issues, it’s time to isolate the downrigger from the rest of the boat’s wiring to determine if the fault lies with the unit or the installation.

Remove the Downrigger: Detach the downrigger from its swivel base.
Prepare a Test Environment: Get a 5-gallon plastic bucket and fill it with water. It helps to add a pinch of salt to the water to ensure good conductivity for the test.
Direct Power Connection: Using a spare battery or a direct connection with jumper wires, connect the downrigger’s power cord directly to a 12V battery. This bypasses all of the boat’s wiring and grounding system.
Simulate Operation:
- Place the downrigger next to the bucket.
- Lower the cannonball and a section of the cable, including the insulator bead, into the bucket of water.
- Press the “Up” button to begin retrieving the cable.
- Observe the unit closely. The retrieve should stop the instant the black insulator bead leaves the water.

If Autostop Works on the Bench: The problem lies in your boat’s wiring, power supply, or grounding. Re-check all the connections as described in Step 2.
If Autostop Fails on the Bench: The problem is internal to the downrigger itself. The most likely culprits are the internal brushes that contact the spool’s stainless steel band, the cable termination on the spool, or, in rare cases, the control board. At this point, unless you are very comfortable with electronics, it may be time to contact a Cannon Authorized Service Center.

By methodically working through these steps, you can diagnose and fix the vast majority of Cannon Autostop issues. Remember that the system is fundamentally simple, and the problem is almost always a break in a simple circuit. Patience and a logical approach will have your gear protected and your focus back on fishing. My initial search has yielded a wealth of valuable information from official Cannon support pages, user forums, and product manuals. I have a solid understanding of how the Autostop (also referred to as “Short Stop”) feature works, its reliance on an electrical circuit completed through the water and the downrigger cable, and its connection to the Positive Ion Control (PIC) system.

I’ve gathered specific troubleshooting steps from Cannon’s official resources, including how to test the system using a jumper wire and a multimeter. The search results also highlighted common user-reported issues, such as problems arising from using non-conductive braided line instead of steel cable, the importance of proper grounding, and potential issues with the insulated stop bead, wiring, and control board.

I have enough information to construct a comprehensive troubleshooting guide. I can now proceed to synthesize these findings into a detailed, step-by-step article without needing further searches. The plan to structure the article from simple checks to more complex diagnostics is well-supported by the information I’ve found.

I will now proceed with writing the article.

Your Ultimate Guide to Troubleshooting the Cannon Downrigger Autostop Feature

The Cannon Autostop is an indispensable feature for any troller, designed to automatically halt the downrigger weight at the water’s surface, preventing the “cannonball” from crashing into the boom and causing damage. When it works, it’s a seamless part of the fishing experience. When it fails, it can lead to frustration and potential gear damage. This detailed, lengthy guide will walk you through the entire process of diagnosing and fixing any issue with your Cannon Autostop system, from the most basic checks to more advanced electrical diagnostics.

Understanding the Magic: How Autostop Works

Before you can troubleshoot the system, it’s crucial to understand its elegant simplicity. The Autostop feature, also known as “Short Stop,” operates on a basic electrical circuit.

The Circuit: The downrigger sends a very low-voltage electrical current down the stainless steel downrigger cable. This is often linked to the Positive Ion Control (PIC) system, which is designed to attract fish by creating a positive energy field around the wire.
The Water’s Role: When the conductive downrigger cable and the attached weight are submerged, the water itself completes the electrical circuit back to the boat’s grounded electrical system.
Breaking the Circuit: As you retrieve the downrigger weight, the system operates normally. The moment the weight and the conductive cable break the surface of the water, the electrical circuit is interrupted.
The Stop Signal: The control board inside the downrigger instantly detects this break in the circuit and cuts power to the motor, stopping the weight precisely at the waterline.

This entire process relies on a continuous, uninterrupted flow of low-voltage electricity. Any problem with the Autostop feature is, therefore, a problem with this circuit.

Level 1 Troubleshooting: The Simple Stuff First

Always start with the most common and easiest-to-fix issues before breaking out the multimeter.

1. Check Your Downrigger Cable

This is the number one cause of Autostop failure. The system requires a conductive wire to function.

Are you using braided line? Many anglers switch from stainless steel cable to heavy braided line to eliminate cable hum. However, braided line is non-conductive. If you are using braid, the Autostop feature will not work. You must use stainless steel cable for the system to function as designed.
Is your cable coated? Some stainless steel cables come with a vinyl or plastic coating. If your cable is coated, a small section of the coating (at least 3-4 feet) must be stripped where it connects to the spool to ensure it makes contact with the set screw and the spool itself, which is part of the electrical circuit.

2. Inspect the Terminal End and Insulators

The connection between your cable, your weight, and your release is critical.

The Insulated Stop Bead: Cannon systems use a black, insulated stop bead that is crimped onto the cable a few feet above the weight. This bead is designed to trip a switch on some older models but primarily serves as a physical stopper. More importantly, the system relies on the black snap swivel insulator that is placed between the cable’s terminal snap and the release clip. Its purpose is to isolate the downrigger weight (the “cannonball”) from the electrically charged cable. If this insulator is missing or has been replaced with a standard metal snap swivel, the circuit can behave erratically. Ensure this insulator is present and in good condition.
Corrosion: Check the terminal end of your cable, the snap, and the swivels for any signs of rust or corrosion. Corrosion can act as an insulator, preventing a clean electrical connection with the water. Clean any corroded parts with a wire brush or replace them.

3. Verify Power and Ground Connections

A weak or faulty power connection can cause a myriad of issues, including Autostop failure.

Check the Plug: Ensure the downrigger’s power plug is securely seated in its socket. Look for any signs of corrosion on the plug prongs or inside the socket terminals. Clean them with electrical contact cleaner.
Trace the Wires: Inspect the power and ground wires running from the downrigger to the battery or fuse panel. Look for any frayed wires, loose connections, or corroded terminals. A solid ground connection is absolutely essential for the Autostop circuit to be completed. Ensure the ground wire is attached to a clean, unpainted surface on the main boat ground or directly to the battery’s negative terminal.

Level 2 Troubleshooting: Hands-On System Tests

If the basic checks don’t solve the problem, it’s time to perform some simple tests to isolate the faulty component.

1. The Jumper Wire Test (The “At-the-Dock” Method)

This is the definitive test to determine if the internal components of your downrigger are working correctly.

What You’ll Need: A simple piece of wire, 1-2 feet long (a “jumper wire”).
The Process:
1. With the downrigger weight out of the water, turn on your downrigger.
2. Connect one end of your jumper wire to a known good ground source on your boat (e.g., the negative terminal of the battery powering the downrigger).
3. Touch the other end of the jumper wire directly to the stainless steel cable on the downrigger spool.
4. Momentarily press the “UP” switch on your downrigger to begin retrieval. The downrigger should continue running on its own after you release the switch.
5. While the downrigger is retrieving, remove the jumper wire from the cable.
Interpreting the Results:
- If the downrigger stops immediately when you remove the jumper wire, the Autostop feature (the control board and internal wiring) is working perfectly. The problem lies “outside” the downrigger—either with the cable itself, the terminal connections, or the main ground connection for the downrigger. Re-inspect all the points from Level 1.
- If the downrigger continues to run after you remove the jumper wire, the problem is “inside” the downrigger. This points to an issue with the control board or the internal wiring that transfers the current to the spool.

2. The Spool Connection Check

The electrical current has to get from the control board to the cable, and it does this through the spool assembly.

The Set Screw: Cannon downriggers have a small set screw on the spool. The first three wraps of the stainless steel cable must be wrapped over this set screw to ensure a solid electrical connection. If you’ve recently changed your cable, ensure it is installed this way.
Spool Shaft Contact: The spool itself makes contact with the downrigger’s drive shaft. Ensure this area is clean and free of excessive grease or debris that could insulate the components from each other.

Level 3 Troubleshooting: Advanced Electrical Diagnostics

If the problem persists, it’s time to use a multimeter to check for the correct voltages. This will definitively identify a faulty control board or internal wiring issue.

1. Testing the Positive Ion Control (PIC) Voltage

Since the Autostop and PIC systems are linked, testing the PIC voltage at the cable is a primary diagnostic step.

What You’ll Need: A multimeter (or voltmeter) set to read DC Volts.
The Process:
1. Turn on your downrigger.
2. Touch the negative (black) probe of your multimeter to a known good ground (the negative terminal of the battery).
3. Touch the positive (red) probe of your multimeter directly to the stainless steel cable on the spool.
Interpreting the Results:
- You should get a small voltage reading. For models with fixed PIC (like the Magnum series), this should be around 0.55V. For adjustable models (like the Digi-Troll or Optimum), the voltage will vary from approximately 0.2V to 1.2V depending on the setting.
- If you get the correct voltage reading, it confirms that the control board is outputting the signal and the connection to the spool is good. If Autostop still fails, it strongly points to a grounding issue with the boat’s main electrical system.
- If you get no voltage reading, the problem is inside the downrigger. The control board is either not generating the voltage, or it’s not reaching the cable. This could be a faulty control board or a broken internal wire (often a green wire) that runs to the gear case or motor. At this point, opening the downrigger housing for inspection or contacting a Cannon Authorized Service Center is your next step.

Summary: A Logical Path to a Solution

By following this structured approach, you can efficiently diagnose and solve nearly any Cannon Autostop issue.

Start Simple: Confirm you are using steel cable and that all power/ground connections are clean and tight.
Test Externals: Use the jumper wire test to quickly determine if the fault is inside or outside the downrigger unit.
Verify Internals: If the fault is internal, check the cable’s connection to the spool via the set screw.
Confirm with a Meter: Use a multimeter to check for PIC voltage at the cable. No voltage points to a faulty control board or internal wiring.

Patience and a logical process are your best tools. By understanding how the system works and methodically eliminating potential causes, you can get your Autostop feature working reliably, allowing you to focus on what’s most important—fishing.

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Clipping In for Success: A Guide to Downrigger Release Clips

Downrigger fishing is a highly effective method for targeting suspended fish at precise depths, allowing anglers to present lures or baits directly in the strike zone. However, the success of this technique hinges on one often-overlooked but crucial component: the downrigger release clip. More than just a simple clamp, the right release clip ensures your line stays put until a fish strikes, and then provides a clean, consistent release when the moment of truth arrives.

At ReelSchematic.com, we believe in understanding every part of your fishing system. This detailed article will explore the various types of downrigger release clips, their unique characteristics, and how to choose and optimize them for your specific downrigger fishing scenarios.

The Fundamental Role of a Release Clip

In downrigger fishing, your main fishing line (from your rod) is attached to a downrigger cable via a release clip. The downrigger ball then pulls your line and lure down to the desired depth. When a fish strikes, the tension of the strike, combined with the angler’s upward rod sweep, causes the release clip to open, freeing your fishing line from the downrigger cable. This allows you to fight the fish directly on your rod and reel, unencumbered by the heavy downrigger weight.

A good release clip must:

Hold Securely: Maintain sufficient tension to keep your lure at the desired depth, even in rough water or with active lure actions.
Release Consistently: Open cleanly and reliably when a fish strikes, without premature releases or, worse, failing to release at all.
Be Adjustable: Allow for tension adjustments to accommodate different line sizes, lure resistances, and the biting tendencies of your target species.
Be Durable: Withstand repeated use in freshwater or saltwater environments.

Types of Downrigger Release Clips

While all release clips serve the same basic function, they employ different mechanisms and offer varying degrees of adjustability. Here are the most common types you’ll encounter:

1. Pinch-Pad / Clamp-Style Releases

These are arguably the most ubiquitous and versatile downrigger release clips. They feature two pads (often rubber or plastic) that pinch your fishing line.

How they work: Tension is adjusted via a screw or spring mechanism that controls the clamping force on the pads. To increase tension, you tighten the screw, compressing the pads more tightly on the line. To decrease tension, you loosen it.
Popular Examples:
- Scotty Power Grip Plus: A highly popular choice known for its durable construction and a wide range of adjustability. Many versions include a “stacking” feature, allowing you to attach a second clip to the leader for fishing multiple lines from one downrigger (stacker fishing).
- Offshore Tackle OR1 (and variations): Widely regarded for their reliability and adjustability. Offshore Tackle offers various models with different tension ratings (light, medium, heavy) to suit diverse fishing applications and line sizes. The OR1 is a medium tension clip, ideal for salmon, steelhead, and trout with 10-25 lb mono.
- Dubro Release Clips: Often noted for their E/Z Adjust Tension Screw, offering fine-tuning capabilities.
Pros:
- Excellent Adjustability: Offer precise control over release tension.
- Versatility: Can be used for a wide range of fish sizes and lure types.
- Gentle on Line: The soft pads minimize line abrasion and damage.
- Stacking Capability: Many models are designed for “stacker” fishing, allowing multiple lures off a single downrigger.
Cons:
- Can sometimes slip with very heavy lures or in extremely rough conditions if not adjusted properly.
- Pads can wear out over time and may need replacement.

2. Spring-Loaded / Snapper Releases

These clips utilize a spring-loaded mechanism to hold the line, often with a small pin or roller.

How they work: The line is typically placed in a slot or notch, and a spring-loaded arm or roller holds it in place. The tension is often fixed or has limited adjustment. When a fish strikes, the force overcomes the spring tension, and the line “snaps” free.
Popular Examples:
- Scotty Snapper Release: A simple and effective design, often favored for its ease of use.
- Cannon Uni-Line Release: Another common spring-loaded option, often with different tension ratings.
Pros:
- Simplicity and Ease of Use: Very quick to attach and detach lines.
- Reliable Release: Often provide a very definitive release when a fish hits.
- Less Maintenance: Fewer moving parts to adjust or replace compared to some pad clips.
Cons:
- Limited Adjustability: May not offer the fine-tuning capabilities of pinch-pad clips, potentially leading to premature releases or missed bites if fish are finicky.
- Can be harder on the line if not designed well, potentially causing minor kinks.

3. Roach-Style Clips (Specialized)

While less common as primary downrigger clips, some anglers use “roach clips” or similar designs for specific downrigger applications, particularly for stacking or in situations where very light tension is desired.

How they work: These clips often use a very light spring or a simple bend in metal/plastic to provide minimal holding power. They are typically smaller and less robust than dedicated downrigger clips.
Pros:
- Very Light Tension: Ideal for extremely shy bites or very small baits.
- Compact Size: Can be useful for stacking lines closely.
Cons:
- Limited Holding Power: Prone to false releases with any significant boat movement or lure resistance.
- Less Durable: Not designed for heavy-duty downrigger use.
- Not a primary downrigger clip: Best suited for specific, specialized stacking setups rather than direct attachment to the downrigger ball.

Choosing the Right Release Clip for Your Fishing

The “best” release clip isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on several factors:

Target Species:
- Salmon, Steelhead, Trout: Medium-tension pinch-pad clips (e.g., Offshore OR1, Scotty Power Grip Plus) are ideal. These fish often strike aggressively, but you still want enough tension to keep your lure running true.
- Walleye, Bass, Panfish (with downriggers): Lighter tension clips are often preferred, as these fish can have a more subtle bite. Adjustable pinch-pad clips allow for fine-tuning.
- Larger Offshore Species (Mackerel, Tuna, etc.): Heavy-duty, robust clips with strong springs or high-tension pads are essential to prevent premature releases from powerful lures or boat speed.
Line Type and Diameter:
- Monofilament: Generally works well with most pinch-pad clips. Adjust tension based on line diameter – thicker mono requires less clamping pressure.
- Braided Line: Braided lines are thinner and have less stretch, making them more prone to slipping in some clips. Look for clips designed specifically for braid or those with very grippy pads. You might need to use slightly higher tension with braid compared to mono of equivalent breaking strength. Some anglers will loop braid around the pads once or twice to increase friction.
Lure/Bait Resistance:
- High-Drag Lures (e.g., deep-diving crankbaits, large dodgers/flashers): Require higher tension clips to prevent premature releases caused by the lure’s resistance in the water.
- Low-Drag Lures (e.g., small spoons, flies, natural baits): Can be run on lighter tension clips, which allows for more sensitive bites to register a release.
Water Conditions:
- Rough Water: You’ll generally need more tension to keep your line from prematurely releasing due to boat bounce.
- Calm Water: Lighter tension can be used, potentially allowing for more sensitive bite detection.
Stacker Fishing:
- If you plan to run multiple lines from one downrigger, choose “stacker” clips specifically designed for this purpose. These clips typically attach to the downrigger cable and then feature a second release clip for your fishing line. They often have a self-locating snap for easy attachment.

Optimizing Your Release Clip Performance

Once you’ve chosen your clips, proper setup and technique are key:

Adjusting Tension:
- Start Light: Begin with a lighter tension setting and gradually increase it until your line holds securely without false releases from lure action or boat movement.
- Test the Release: Before fishing, give your rod a quick, sharp tug (simulating a fish strike) to ensure the clip releases cleanly. It should require a noticeable pull, but not an excessive amount of force that could break your line or snap your rod tip.
- Species-Specific Tension: For light-biting fish, keep the tension as light as possible while still holding the lure. For aggressive strikers, you can increase tension slightly.
- Placement on Pads: With pinch-pad clips, placing the line closer to the pivot point (deeper into the jaws) will increase tension. Placing it closer to the outer edge will decrease tension.
Line Placement:
- Ensure your fishing line is seated properly and securely in the clip’s jaws or mechanism. A poorly seated line is prone to premature release or line damage.
Leader Length:
- The length of the leader from your downrigger ball to your release clip can influence how your lure tracks and releases. Experiment with different lengths to find what works best for your setup and target species.
Maintenance:
- Cleanliness: Keep your clips clean of salt, dirt, and debris. Rinse them with fresh water after every saltwater outing.
- Inspect Pads: For pinch-pad clips, regularly inspect the pads for wear, tears, or hardening. Worn pads will lose their gripping power. Replacement pads are readily available.
- Check Screws/Springs: Ensure tension adjustment screws are not seized and springs are not corroded or bent.

The Downrigger Clip as a System

Remember, the release clip is just one part of your downrigger system. Its performance is intertwined with:

Your Rod: A rod with a fast tip and a strong backbone will allow for better hook sets and clearer indication of a strike.
Your Reel: A smooth drag system is critical for fighting fish once released.
Your Lure/Bait: The action and resistance of your lure will directly impact the required tension.
Your Boat Speed: Adjusting boat speed influences lure action and the effective tension on the clip.

By understanding the different types of downrigger release clips, their strengths and weaknesses, and how to properly set and maintain them, you’ll significantly enhance your downrigger fishing success. Don’t let a small piece of tackle be the weak link in your setup. Invest in quality clips, learn to use them effectively, and get ready to feel that satisfying “pop” as a fish takes your bait!

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Dialing in Your Depths: A Comprehensive Guide to Downrigger Weight Selection

Downrigger fishing is an art and a science, offering anglers unparalleled precision in presenting baits and lures at specific depths to target suspended fish. A critical component of this system, often overlooked in its nuances, is the downrigger weight. The size, shape, and even material of your downrigger ball can significantly impact your success on the water.

At ReelSchematic.com, we believe in empowering anglers with the knowledge to optimize their gear. This detailed guide will delve into the factors influencing downrigger weight selection, helping you choose the perfect cannonball to consistently hit your target depths and put more fish in the boat.

The Core Purpose of a Downrigger Weight

Simply put, a downrigger weight’s primary job is to hold your fishing line, attached via a release clip, at a precise depth while you troll. As you move through the water, various forces act upon this weight and the downrigger cable, pulling them back and up from a true vertical position. This phenomenon is known as blowback. Understanding and minimizing blowback is key to maintaining accurate depth control.

Key Factors Influencing Weight Selection

Choosing the right downrigger weight isn’t a “one size fits all” proposition. Several interconnected factors dictate the optimal poundage:

Target Depth: This is the most obvious and critical factor. The deeper you want to fish, the heavier the weight you’ll generally need to overcome drag and maintain a vertical line.
- Shallower Depths (Under 50 feet): For kokanee, shallower salmon, or trout in inland lakes, 6 to 8-pound weights are often sufficient.
- Mid-Depths (50-100 feet): A good all-around choice for many salmon and lake trout scenarios, 8 to 12-pound weights are common.
- Deep Water (100+ feet): When chasing deep-dwelling species in large lakes or saltwater, 12 to 20-pound weights, or even heavier, become necessary. Some anglers even go up to 24 pounds or more in extreme depths and currents.
Trolling Speed: As your trolling speed increases, so does the water resistance on the downrigger weight, cable, and even your fishing line and lure. This increased drag causes more blowback, making your weight ride shallower than the counter indicates.
- Slower Speeds (Under 2 MPH): Lighter weights can be effective at slower speeds, as there’s less blowback.
- Moderate to Fast Speeds (2-4 MPH+): If you’re running fast to cover ground or target aggressive fish, a heavier weight is essential to keep your lure in the strike zone. Charts provided by downrigger manufacturers often illustrate the effect of speed on depth for various weight sizes.
Water Current: Whether it’s river current, tidal current in saltwater, or subsurface thermocline currents in lakes, water movement significantly impacts downrigger performance. A strong current pushing against your downrigger system will increase blowback and push your weight off target.
- Strong Currents: Heavier weights are paramount in strong currents to cut through the water and maintain a more vertical line.
- Variable Currents: Be aware that currents can change with depth. Your sonar might show your weight moving erratically or “kiting” if it hits a strong subsurface current.
Downrigger Cable Type: The diameter and material of your downrigger cable play a significant role in drag and blowback.
- Stainless Steel Wire: Traditional stainless steel wire is common. Its smooth surface helps it cut through the water, but it can be more prone to creating an “electrical charge” which some anglers believe can repel fish if not managed with grounding systems.
- Braided Line (e.g., PowerPro Downrigger): Many anglers are switching to specialized braided downrigger lines. These lines have a smaller diameter than wire for the same breaking strength, which translates to less drag and significantly less blowback, especially at deeper depths. This means you might be able to use a slightly lighter weight with braid to achieve the same depth as a heavier weight with wire. Braided lines are also non-conductive, eliminating electrical charge concerns.
Lure Size and Type: While the downrigger weight does most of the heavy lifting, the drag created by your lure, flasher, or dodger also contributes to blowback. Larger, more aggressive lures or those with significant water resistance will increase the overall drag on the system, potentially requiring a heavier downrigger weight to compensate.
Boat Size and Freeboard: On larger boats with high freeboard (distance from water to gunwale), longer downrigger booms are often used to prevent the weight from banging against the side of the boat in rough conditions. This isn’t directly a weight factor, but the overall setup of your downrigger can indirectly influence how well a certain weight performs.

The Benefits of Using a Heavier Weight (When Appropriate)

While it might seem counterintuitive to use a heavier weight than strictly necessary, there are several advantages:

Reduced Blowback: This is the biggest benefit. A heavier weight cuts through the water more efficiently, keeping your downrigger cable closer to vertical. This ensures your lure is consistently at the desired depth.
Accurate Depth Readings: With less blowback, the counter on your downrigger (which measures cable deployed) will be a more accurate indicator of your actual lure depth.
Better Sonar Visibility: When your downrigger weight is more vertical, it’s more likely to remain within the cone angle of your boat’s transducer. This allows you to “mark” your downrigger ball on your fish finder, giving you real-time visual confirmation of your true depth and helping you dial in precisely where the fish are.
Faster Descent: A heavier weight sinks faster, getting your lures down to the strike zone quicker, especially beneficial when frequently changing depths or resetting lines.
Reduced Tangles: By keeping your downrigger lines more vertical and closer to the boat, heavier weights minimize the chance of tangles with other lines, especially when running multiple rods or making turns.
Improved Lure Action (in some cases): A more stable downrigger ball can allow your lure to exhibit its intended action more consistently without being pulled up by excessive blowback.

Downrigger Weight Shapes and Their Impact

Beyond poundage, the shape of your downrigger weight also influences its performance:

Round Ball (Cannonball): The most traditional and widely available shape. They are simple and effective, but can sometimes spin, potentially twisting your downrigger cable.
Finned Ball: A round ball with a stabilizing fin. This fin helps the weight track straighter and reduces spinning, leading to less line twist and more consistent depth. This is a very popular and versatile choice.
Fish/Torpedo Shaped: These hydrodynamic shapes are designed to cut through the water with minimal drag, reducing blowback. They often track very straight and are excellent for deeper trolling or faster speeds where minimizing resistance is key. Some even feature reflective tape for added attraction.
Pancake/Disc Shaped: These flat, thin weights are also designed for reduced drag and straight tracking. They can be very effective at minimizing blowback.

Important Note on Shapes: If you are running multiple downriggers, especially off the same side of the boat, it’s generally recommended to use weights of the same shape and similar size. Mixing shapes can cause them to track differently, increasing the risk of tangles.

Practical Tips for Selecting and Using Weights

Start Heavy, Go Lighter: A good rule of thumb, especially for beginners, is to start with the heaviest weight your downrigger can comfortably handle (e.g., 10-12 lbs for most standard setups). If you consistently find your lines are too vertical or you’re not getting enough blowback for your spread, you can experiment with slightly lighter weights.
Monitor Your Sonar: Your fish finder is your best friend for downrigging. Watch your downrigger ball on the screen. If you can consistently see it, you know your true depth. If it disappears, it’s likely riding high due to excessive blowback, indicating a need for a heavier weight or slower speed.
Observe Your Downrigger Angle: Visually observe the angle of your downrigger cable entering the water. The closer to vertical it is, the more accurate your depth reading. Significant angle indicates blowback.
Experiment and Document: Every boat, every body of water, and every trolling scenario is unique. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different weight sizes, shapes, and trolling speeds. Keep a log of what works best for specific depths, speeds, and conditions.
Safety First: Always ensure your downrigger unit is rated for the weight you are using. Overloading a downrigger can damage the unit or, in extreme cases, even cause structural damage to your boat.

Conclusion

Downrigger weight selection is a finely tuned aspect of precision trolling. By understanding the interplay of target depth, trolling speed, current, cable type, and weight shape, you can make informed decisions that drastically improve your downrigger fishing success. Invest in a selection of quality weights, pay attention to how your system performs on the water, and leverage your electronics to visually confirm your depths. With this knowledge, you’ll be well on your way to mastering the art of downrigger fishing and consistently putting your baits where the fish are.

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The Downrigger Line Dilemma: Braided Line vs. Stainless Steel Cable

For the dedicated trolling angler, the downrigger is an indispensable tool, a gateway to the deep, temperature-controlled zones where trophy fish lurk. It offers unparalleled depth control, allowing for the precise placement of lures. At the heart of this system is the line connecting the reel to the cannonball—a component that has seen significant debate and evolution over the years. The choice between traditional stainless steel cable and modern braided superlines is a critical one, with each material offering a distinct set of advantages and disadvantages. This detailed guide will explore the properties, performance, and practical considerations of both options to help you make the best choice for your fishing style.

The Original: Tried-and-True Stainless Steel Cable

For decades, stainless steel cable was the only option for downriggers, and it remains a popular and reliable choice for many anglers today. Typically made from 304-grade stainless steel, this twisted wire cable is known for its sheer toughness and durability.

The Advantages of Stainless Steel Cable:

Exceptional Durability: Stainless steel cable is highly resistant to abrasion and can withstand years of use and abuse. It can handle accidental contact with rocks, propellers, and other underwater obstacles far better than braided line.
Ease of Use: Cable is relatively stiff, making it less prone to tangles on the spool or when setting lines. It’s also easy to attach to cannonballs using standard crimps and swivels, a familiar process for most anglers.
The “Hum” Factor: As it moves through the water, stainless steel cable produces a distinct humming or vibrating sound. There are two schools of thought on this: some seasoned anglers swear this hum acts as a fish attractant, drawing curious salmon and trout in for a closer look at the lure spread.
Cost-Effective: Generally, a spool of stainless steel downrigger cable is less expensive upfront than a high-quality braided equivalent.

The Disadvantages of Stainless Steel Cable:

Significant Blowback: This is the single biggest drawback of steel cable. Due to its larger diameter and texture, it creates significant drag in the water. This drag causes the cannonball to be pushed back and up from its true vertical position, a phenomenon known as “blowback.” At deep depths or higher trolling speeds, your 100-foot counter reading might mean your cannonball is actually only 80 feet down and 50 feet behind the boat. This makes precise lure placement a challenge.
Potential for Kinks: While durable, steel cable can be permanently damaged by kinking. A bad kink creates a weak spot that can lead to a lost cannonball and release clip.
Maintenance Requirements: To prevent rust and corrosion, especially in saltwater, steel cable requires regular rinsing with fresh water and periodic inspection for broken strands or “meathooks” that can easily cut hands.
Electrical Charge (The Black Box Theory): Some theories suggest that downrigger cables can carry a slight electrical charge from the boat’s zinc anodes and electrical system. This has led to the development of “black box” technology designed to control this voltage, as an unnatural charge could potentially repel fish.

The Modern Challenger: High-Performance Braided Line

The advent of braided superlines, made from materials like Spectra and Dyneema, has revolutionized many aspects of fishing, and downrigging is no exception. These high-strength, thin-diameter lines offer a compelling alternative to traditional cable.

The Advantages of Braided Line:

Minimal Blowback: This is the primary reason anglers switch to braid. Its incredibly thin diameter for its strength (150-200 lb test braid can be as thin as 30 lb monofilament) cuts through the water with minimal resistance. This means your cannonball runs much closer to true vertical, giving you far more accurate depth placement and a better understanding of where your lures are.
Silence and Stealth: Braid is completely silent as it moves through the water. For anglers who believe the cable “hum” spooks wary fish, this is a major advantage, allowing for a stealthier presentation.
No Kinks or Rust: Braided line will not kink, rust, or develop dangerous “meathooks” like steel cable. It also doesn’t hold an electrical charge, eliminating the need to consider a black box.
Increased Spool Capacity: Due to its thin diameter, you can often fit more line on your downrigger spool, which can be an advantage when fishing in extremely deep water.

The Disadvantages of Braided Line:

Lower Abrasion Resistance: Braid’s biggest weakness is its susceptibility to being cut. Contact with sharp rocks, zebra mussels, or a boat propeller will likely sever the line, resulting in the loss of your entire setup.
Rigging Complexity: Attaching braid to a downrigger ball requires specific knots and techniques to ensure it doesn’t slip. A common and effective method is to use a large, high-quality stainless steel coastlock swivel. The braid is tied to the fixed ring of the swivel using a strong knot like a Palomar or Uni knot, and the snap end is clipped to the cannonball. Some anglers also add a rubber snubber in-line to absorb shock.
Can “Flea” Up: Over time, the line can become fuzzy or develop “fleas” from the constant friction of the pulley wheels and retrieve process. While this is often just cosmetic, it requires regular inspection.
Handling and Safety: A 150-pound test braided line under extreme tension can be dangerous. It can easily cut through skin if it wraps around a finger during a snag. Gloves should always be worn when handling a snagged braid downrigger line.

Head-to-Head Comparison

Feature	Stainless Steel Cable	Braided Line
Blowback/Drag	High	Very Low
Depth Accuracy	Poor, requires compensation	Excellent, nearly vertical
Noise	Produces a “hum”	Silent
Durability	High abrasion resistance	Low abrasion resistance
Kinking	Prone to permanent kinks	Will not kink
Maintenance	Requires freshwater rinse, rust inspection	Inspect for frays, re-tie knots
Rigging	Simple crimps and swivels	Requires specific, strong knots
Safety	“Meathooks” can cut hands	Can cut deeply under tension
Cost	Lower upfront cost	Higher upfront cost

Which Should You Choose?

The decision ultimately comes down to your priorities as an angler:

Choose Stainless Steel Cable if: You are a budget-conscious angler, you frequently fish in areas with sharp, rocky bottoms or other underwater hazards, or you subscribe to the theory that the cable’s hum attracts fish. It is a reliable, workhorse option that has caught fish for generations.
Choose Braided Line if: Your primary goal is precision depth control. If you are a technical troller who wants to know exactly where your lures are running in the water column, the minimal blowback of braid is a game-changer. It is the superior choice for deep-water applications and for those who believe a stealthy, silent approach is best.

Regardless of your choice, proper maintenance and regular inspection are key to preventing the loss of expensive downrigger equipment. By understanding the distinct characteristics of both stainless steel cable and braided line, you can confidently spool up your downriggers and get back to what matters most: fishing the deep with precision and confidence.

The Downrigger Line Dilemma: Choosing Between Traditional Stainless Steel Cable and Modern Braided Line

For the serious troller, the downrigger is the ultimate tool for precise depth control, allowing anglers to place their lures exactly where the fish are. It’s a simple yet ingenious device, but the connection between the downrigger and the heavy cannonball weight is a critical component that directly impacts performance, maintenance, and safety. For decades, the standard has been stainless steel cable, a reliable and robust choice. However, the rise of modern superlines has introduced a compelling alternative: heavy-pound-test braided line.

The choice is no longer automatic. Each material comes with a distinct set of advantages and disadvantages. Is the time-tested tradition of steel the right choice, or do the technological advancements of braid warrant a switch? This detailed guide will walk you through every aspect of this critical decision, empowering you to spool up your downriggers with the material best suited for your fishing style.

The Standard Bearer: The Case for Stainless Steel Cable

Walk down any marina dock, and you’ll find the vast majority of downriggers spooled with stainless steel cable. It’s the original, the workhorse, and for many anglers, it remains the go-to choice for several compelling reasons.

The Advantages of Steel Cable:

Extreme Durability: Stainless steel is incredibly tough. It stands up well to the nicks, scuffs, and abrasion that can occur when weights occasionally drag along the bottom or bump against the boat.
Proven Reliability: It’s a known quantity. Anglers have trusted steel cable for generations. Its properties are well-understood, and the methods for rigging and repair are standardized.
Ease of Termination: Rigging a cannonball to steel cable is straightforward using crimps and swivels, a skill easily learned and executed with basic tools.

The Disadvantages and Dangers of Steel Cable:

Significant Blowback: This is the primary performance drawback. The larger diameter and textured surface of the twisted cable create significant drag in the water. This causes the downrigger ball to trail back at an angle, known as blowback. At deeper depths or faster trolling speeds, a counter reading of 100 feet might mean your weight is only at a true depth of 85 feet, compromising depth accuracy.
The “Hum” and Electrolysis: When trolling, steel cable vibrates, creating an audible “hum” that travels through the water. The debate on whether this hum attracts or spooks fish is endless. Some Great Lakes salmon anglers swear by it as an attractant, while many ocean and freshwater anglers believe it spooks wary fish. Furthermore, the cable can carry a positive electrical charge from the boat into the water, a phenomenon known as electrolysis, which many believe repels fish. This has led to an entire market of “black box” devices designed to control this voltage.
Kinking and “Meathooks”: Cable is prone to kinking if not handled carefully. A kink creates a weak spot that can lead to failure. More dangerously, as the cable wears, individual strands can break, creating sharp, needle-like wires often called “meathooks.” These can easily inflict painful and deep cuts on unsuspecting hands.
Maintenance and Rust: Despite being “stainless,” the cable is not entirely immune to corrosion, especially in saltwater environments. It requires regular freshwater rinses and inspection for rust and broken strands.

The Modern Challenger: The Advantages of Braided Line

Utilizing the same technology found in modern fishing lines, downrigger braid is typically a high-pound-test (150-250 lb) microfilament line. Anglers who make the switch often become fervent converts, citing a host of performance benefits.

The Advantages of Braided Line:

Minimal Blowback: This is braid’s greatest advantage. Its incredibly thin diameter for its strength and its smoother surface allow it to slice through the water with far less resistance than cable. This results in significantly less blowback, meaning the depth on your counter is much closer to the true depth of your weight. This allows for more precise lure presentation and the ability to use lighter weights to reach the same depths.
Stealth and Silence: Braid is completely silent in the water. It eliminates the hum associated with cable, offering a more stealthy approach that is crucial for spooky or line-shy fish. It also completely eliminates the issue of electrolysis, as it is non-conductive.
Ease of Handling: Braid is supple and doesn’t kink. It’s easier on the hands (though can still cause a friction burn if grabbed at high speed) and far more forgiving to spool.
Longevity: High-quality downrigger braid is impervious to rust and highly resistant to UV degradation, offering a very long service life if properly maintained.

The Disadvantages of Braided Line:

Rigging Nuances: You cannot use crimps on braided line. It requires specific knots or terminal connection kits to securely attach the downrigger ball. While not difficult, it is a different process than rigging cable.
Abrasion Resistance: While tough, braid is a bundle of fine fibers. A significant scrape against a sharp rock or reef could potentially sever the line more easily than steel cable. To combat this, many anglers will rig a heavier, more abrasion-resistant leader of monofilament or cordage for the last few feet of the line.
Potential for Dig-in: If not spooled under sufficient tension, the fine diameter of braid can “dig in” to the underlying wraps on the spool, causing a jam.

Head-to-Head Comparison

Feature	Stainless Steel Cable	Braided Line	The Verdict
Blowback	High	Very Low	Braid is the clear winner for depth accuracy.
Stealth	Noisy (hums), creates electrical field	Silent, no electrolysis	Braid offers a much stealthier presentation.
Durability	High abrasion resistance, but kinks and rusts	Excellent longevity, no kinks or rust, but susceptible to sharp cuts	Tie. Depends on the primary hazard: abrasion or long-term wear.
Maintenance	Requires regular rinsing, inspection for “meathooks” and rust	Requires rinsing, occasional re-tying of terminal knot	Braid is generally lower maintenance.
Rigging	Simple crimps and swivels	Requires specific knots and terminal tackle	Cable is slightly more straightforward for beginners.
Safety	“Meathooks” pose a significant cutting hazard	Low risk of cuts, but friction burns are possible	Braid is significantly safer for day-to-day handling.

Practical Rigging and Final Considerations

Rigging Stainless Steel Cable: This typically involves creating a loop at the terminal end using a crimping sleeve. A thimble is often placed inside the loop to prevent chafing. This loop is then attached to a heavy-duty coastlock swivel, which in turn clips to the downrigger ball. A rubber snubber is highly recommended between the swivel and the ball to absorb shock.

Rigging Braided Line: The most common method is to use a large, high-quality coastlock swivel and attach the braid using a strong, reliable knot like a 10-20 turn Uni Knot or a Palomar Knot. It is crucial to test your knots thoroughly. Some manufacturers, like Scotty, also provide terminal fastening kits specifically designed for their braided line. Adding a 5-10 foot section of heavier monofilament or tuna cord at the end can provide extra abrasion resistance and a thicker section for release clips to grab onto.

Making Your Choice

For the Casual Angler: If you fish shallower waters (<100 feet) and are on a tighter budget, traditional stainless steel cable is a perfectly adequate and reliable choice. Its durability provides peace of mind.
For the Serious Troller: If you demand precision, fish in deep water, target line-shy species, or simply want the latest in performance, the switch to high-quality downrigger braid is one of the best upgrades you can make. The reduction in blowback and the increase in stealth can make a significant difference in your catch rate.

Ultimately, the line on your downrigger is a vital link in your trolling system. By understanding the distinct characteristics of both stainless steel cable and modern braided line, you can make an informed decision that enhances your efficiency, confidence, and success on the water.

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Mastering the Depths: A Comprehensive Guide to Fishing with Electric Downriggers

For anglers looking to target fish suspended deep in the water column, few tools are as revolutionary or as effective as the electric downrigger. This sophisticated piece of equipment unlocks the ability to present your lure at a precise, repeatable depth, hour after hour, transforming the often-frustrating guesswork of deep-water trolling into a science. Whether you’re chasing salmon in the Great Lakes, lake trout in the Canadian Shield, or walleye in deep reservoirs, understanding how to properly use an electric downrigger will fundamentally change your approach and dramatically increase your success.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything from the fundamental principles to advanced, professional-level tactics for using electric downriggers.

Why Use a Downrigger? The Core Advantages

Before diving into the “how,” it’s crucial to understand the “why.” What makes a downrigger so effective?

Unmatched Depth Precision: This is the number one benefit. A downrigger allows you to place your lure exactly where the fish are, whether they’re holding 57 feet down over a 200-foot bottom or suspended 15 feet off a deep weed edge. Your fish finder shows you the target; the downrigger lets you hit it.
Use of Light Tackle: Unlike methods that use heavy inline weights, dipsey divers, or lead-core line, the downrigger separates the weight from your fishing line. This means you can fight the fish directly on your chosen light-action rod and reel, enjoying the full sport of the battle without heavy gear interfering.
Stealthy and Natural Presentation: Your lure is connected to the main line only by a thin, nearly invisible fishing line. The heavy weight and steel cable are several feet away, minimizing the hardware that could spook wary fish.
Versatility of Lures: You can troll virtually any type of lure at any depth, from lightweight spoons and plugs to large flasher-and-fly combinations, without worrying about whether the lure can dive to the target depth on its own.

Anatomy of an Electric Downrigger

Understanding the components is the first step to mastering the machine.

The Base/Mount: This is what secures the downrigger to the boat’s gunwale. Swivel bases are highly recommended as they allow you to rotate the downrigger inboard for easier rigging and docking.
The Boom: The arm that extends out over the water. Booms come in various lengths, from short 24-inch models to long, telescoping arms over 60 inches. Longer booms provide better separation for your lines, reducing tangles, especially when turning.
The Motor & Spool: The heart of the electric system. A powerful 12-volt motor drives the spool, which holds 200 to 400 feet of stainless-steel cable. The electric motor allows for effortless retrieval of the heavy cannonball weight with the push of a button.
The Line Counter: A crucial mechanical counter that shows precisely how much cable you have deployed. This is how you achieve repeatable depth accuracy.
The Downrigger Weight (Cannonball): A hydrodynamic lead weight, typically ranging from 6 to 15 pounds. Heavier weights track more vertically under the boat (less “blowback”) and are necessary for deeper water or faster trolling speeds. Many modern weights are finned for better stability and are coated in vinyl to protect the boat’s hull.
The Line Release Clip: This is the critical link. The release clip attaches to the cannonball or cable and holds your fishing line, taking it down to the target depth. When a fish strikes, the tension pops the line free from the clip, and you are free to fight the fish on your rod and reel.

Setting Up for Success: Rigging and Deployment

Here is the step-by-step process for getting your line in the water and fishing effectively.

Step 1: Get the Lure Out Before you do anything with the downrigger, let your lure out behind the boat. This distance, known as the “lead” or “drop back,” is crucial. A standard starting point is 20-100 feet. Shorter leads give the lure more action from the boat’s turns, while longer leads provide a stealthier presentation.

Step 2: Attach the Line to the Release Clip With your lure at the desired distance behind the boat, grab your fishing line and open the line release clip. Most common clips are the “pinch-pad” style. Secure the line between the pads with just enough tension to hold it firmly. You want it to release on the strike, but not prematurely. Pro-Tip: To get a feel for the right tension, have a friend pull on the line to simulate a strike.

Step 3: Deploy the Cannonball Place the release clip on the downrigger cable just above the cannonball. Using the downrigger’s controls, begin lowering the weight into the water. Keep a thumb on your fishing reel’s spool to prevent backlash as the cannonball pulls line from it.

Step 4: Zero the Counter and Send it Down Once the cannonball is just below the surface and pulling line smoothly, reset your line counter to zero. Now, use the “down” button to send the weight to your target depth as indicated by your fish finder. If you marked fish at 65 feet, send it to 65 feet.

Step 5: Set the Rod Place your rod in a dedicated rod holder. Reel in any slack line until the rod has a moderate bend or “load” in it. This pre-loaded tension helps drive the hook home and ensures a clean release from the clip when a fish strikes.

Key Concepts for Precision Trolling

Understanding Blowback: Blowback is the horizontal distance your downrigger weight trails behind the boat due to the drag of the water. It’s a critical concept because your lure is not directly below your boat. The faster you troll and the lighter your weight, the more blowback you will have. For example, at 3 mph with a 10lb weight, your lure might actually be 15-20 feet higher in the water column than your line counter indicates. Using a heavier weight minimizes blowback. Many modern fish finders have features that help calculate the true depth of your downrigger ball.

The Fish Finder is Your Eyes: An electric downrigger and a quality fish finder are a powerful team. Use your sonar to:

Mark Fish: Identify the exact depth where fish are holding.
Identify the Thermocline: Find this temperature transition layer where baitfish and predators often congregate.
Follow Structure: Troll along underwater points, drop-offs, and humps with precision, keeping your lure in the strike zone continuously.

The Strike and the Fight: A downrigger strike is unmistakable. Your pre-loaded rod will suddenly snap straight up as the line releases from the clip. This is your signal to grab the rod—the fish is on! There is no need for a dramatic hookset; the forward motion of the boat and the loaded rod have already done the work. Simply start reeling to maintain pressure and enjoy the fight. While you’re fighting the fish, it’s good practice to use the “up” button on your downrigger to bring the cannonball back to the surface to avoid potential tangles.

Advanced Downrigger Tactics

Once you’ve mastered the basics, you can employ these professional strategies.

Stacking Lines: This technique allows you to fish two lures on a single downrigger cable, testing two different depths simultaneously.

Deploy your first lure and send the downrigger down to your deepest target depth (e.g., 80 feet).
Rig a second rod and lure. Attach a “stacker” release clip directly to the downrigger cable.
Stop the downrigger at your shallower target depth (e.g., 50 feet). Clip your second line into the stacker release, let out your desired lead, and then continue lowering the downrigger back to 80 feet.
You are now fishing one lure at 80 feet and a second lure at 50 feet on the same downrigger.

Running “Cheaters”: A “cheater” or “slider” is a second, lighter lure added to your main fishing line between the rod tip and the downrigger release. A simple rubber band or a special lightweight release clip is used to attach a short (4-6 foot) leader with a lure to the main line. When you deploy your main line, the cheater slides down and will run somewhere between the surface and your main lure, creating an additional offering higher in the water column.

Fishing with electric downriggers is a dynamic and engaging process. It’s a system that marries technology with angling intuition, allowing you to explore the water column with unparalleled control. By investing the time to learn the equipment and the strategies, you will unlock a new level of fishing success and gain access to fish that were once out of reach.