The Angler’s Circuit: A Detailed Guide to Troubleshooting the Cannon Autostop Feature

For the modern trolling angler, the Cannon Autostop feature is more than a convenience; it’s a critical tool for gear protection and efficient operation. This ingenious system automatically halts the downrigger’s retrieve just as the weight, or “cannonball,” reaches the surface, preventing it from crashing into the boom end and causing damage to the cable, pulley, or the downrigger itself. However, when this feature fails, it can be both frustrating and costly. This detailed guide will walk you through the inner workings of the Autostop system and provide a comprehensive, step-by-step process for troubleshooting and resolving any issues you encounter.

Understanding the Magic: How Autostop Works

Before you can fix the system, you must understand how it functions. The Cannon Autostop system is a clever application of a simple electrical circuit. It doesn’t rely on mechanical switches or sensors on the boom. Instead, it uses the downrigger cable and the water itself to complete a low-voltage circuit.

Here are the key components and the principle behind them:

The Negative Path: The downrigger cable (which must be stainless steel) is connected to the negative side of the downrigger’s electrical system.
The Positive Path: The water your boat is in acts as the positive conductor. Through the boat’s common ground and the downrigger’s wiring, the water is held at a positive potential relative to the cable.
The Circuit: When the conductive downrigger cable is submerged in the water, a complete electrical circuit is formed. The control board inside the downrigger detects this completed circuit.
The Insulator: A small, non-conductive bead, typically made of black plastic or vinyl, is crimped onto the downrigger cable a few feet above the weight. This is the Autostop Insulator Bead.
Breaking the Circuit: As you retrieve the downrigger weight, the cable is pulled out of the water. The moment the Insulator Bead clears the water’s surface, the conductive path is broken because the section of cable still in the water is now electrically isolated from the downrigger by the bead. The control board instantly detects this interruption in the circuit and cuts power to the motor, stopping the retrieve.

This same principle is what drives Cannon’s “Positive Ion Control” (PIC) feature, which is designed to attract fish by creating a positive electrical field around the boat. The Autostop is essentially a secondary function of this core electrical design.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting: From Simple Fixes to Deep Dives

When your Autostop fails, the problem is almost always a failure to complete or properly break the electrical circuit. Follow these steps methodically, starting with the most common and easiest-to-fix issues.

Step 1: The Basics – Operator Error and Obvious Issues

Before tearing anything apart, ensure the issue isn’t a simple oversight.

Is the Feature On? On some models, especially digital ones like the Digi-Troll, the Autostop feature can be toggled on or off in the settings menu. Consult your user manual to confirm it is enabled.
Is the Insulator Bead Present and Positioned Correctly? The bead is the lynchpin of the entire system.
- Presence: Has the bead broken off or been removed? You must have one crimped onto the cable.
- Position: The bead should be positioned on the cable so that it exits the water when the cannonball is at your desired stopping depth (typically just below the surface). If it’s too high up the cable, the weight will hit the boom long before the bead leaves the water. If it’s too close to the weight, the motor may stop too soon. A common starting point is 6 to 8 feet above the weight.
Is the Bead Damaged? Inspect the bead for cracks. If it’s cracked, water can seep in and maintain conductivity, preventing the circuit from breaking. Also, ensure it’s clean and not coated in metallic residue or conductive slime.

Step 2: The Circuit’s Foundation – Power and Ground

A faulty power supply or poor ground connection can cause a host of electrical gremlins, including Autostop failure.

Check Power Connections: Ensure the main power plug is securely connected to the downrigger base and that the contacts are clean and free of corrosion. Use a wire brush or contact cleaner if necessary.
Verify the Boat-Side Connection: Inspect the wiring from the downrigger’s receptacle back to the battery or fuse panel. Look for loose connections, frayed wires, or corrosion on terminals. The downrigger must have a solid connection to both the positive and negative terminals of your battery.
Confirm a Common Ground: The downrigger must be connected to the boat’s common ground. This means the negative wire from the downrigger should ultimately connect to the same negative bus bar or battery terminal as all your other electronics. Without a proper ground, the water cannot act as the positive side of the circuit relative to the cable.

Step 3: Inspecting the Conductive Path

If the basics check out, the next step is to trace the electrical path from the spool to the water.

The Spool Connection: This is one of the most common failure points. The downrigger cable must be electrically connected to the downrigger’s internal wiring via the spool.
- Take the side plate off the downrigger to access the spool.
- You will see that the downrigger cable is not tied directly to the plastic spool hub. Instead, it should be attached to a stainless steel band or terminal screw on the inside of the spool. This band is what makes contact with the downrigger’s internal electrical brushes.
- Action: Ensure this connection is clean and tight. Look for corrosion between the cable termination and the stainless steel band. Remove the connection, clean both the cable loop and the terminal with a wire brush or sandpaper, and re-secure it firmly.
The Cable Itself: The system requires a conductive stainless steel cable. If you have recently re-spooled with a non-conductive cable, such as a coated wire or heavy monofilament, the system will not work.
The Water’s Conductivity: In extremely pure, low-mineral freshwater, the water’s conductivity can be very low, sometimes making the Autostop feature intermittent. This is rare but possible. If you suspect this is the case, the issue may be resolved by ensuring your Positive Ion Control is functioning correctly and all connections are pristine to maximize the electrical potential.

Step 4: The Bench Test – Isolating the Problem

If you’re still having issues, it’s time to isolate the downrigger from the rest of the boat’s wiring to determine if the fault lies with the unit or the installation.

Remove the Downrigger: Detach the downrigger from its swivel base.
Prepare a Test Environment: Get a 5-gallon plastic bucket and fill it with water. It helps to add a pinch of salt to the water to ensure good conductivity for the test.
Direct Power Connection: Using a spare battery or a direct connection with jumper wires, connect the downrigger’s power cord directly to a 12V battery. This bypasses all of the boat’s wiring and grounding system.
Simulate Operation:
- Place the downrigger next to the bucket.
- Lower the cannonball and a section of the cable, including the insulator bead, into the bucket of water.
- Press the “Up” button to begin retrieving the cable.
- Observe the unit closely. The retrieve should stop the instant the black insulator bead leaves the water.

If Autostop Works on the Bench: The problem lies in your boat’s wiring, power supply, or grounding. Re-check all the connections as described in Step 2.
If Autostop Fails on the Bench: The problem is internal to the downrigger itself. The most likely culprits are the internal brushes that contact the spool’s stainless steel band, the cable termination on the spool, or, in rare cases, the control board. At this point, unless you are very comfortable with electronics, it may be time to contact a Cannon Authorized Service Center.

By methodically working through these steps, you can diagnose and fix the vast majority of Cannon Autostop issues. Remember that the system is fundamentally simple, and the problem is almost always a break in a simple circuit. Patience and a logical approach will have your gear protected and your focus back on fishing. My initial search has yielded a wealth of valuable information from official Cannon support pages, user forums, and product manuals. I have a solid understanding of how the Autostop (also referred to as “Short Stop”) feature works, its reliance on an electrical circuit completed through the water and the downrigger cable, and its connection to the Positive Ion Control (PIC) system.

I’ve gathered specific troubleshooting steps from Cannon’s official resources, including how to test the system using a jumper wire and a multimeter. The search results also highlighted common user-reported issues, such as problems arising from using non-conductive braided line instead of steel cable, the importance of proper grounding, and potential issues with the insulated stop bead, wiring, and control board.

I have enough information to construct a comprehensive troubleshooting guide. I can now proceed to synthesize these findings into a detailed, step-by-step article without needing further searches. The plan to structure the article from simple checks to more complex diagnostics is well-supported by the information I’ve found.

I will now proceed with writing the article.

Your Ultimate Guide to Troubleshooting the Cannon Downrigger Autostop Feature

The Cannon Autostop is an indispensable feature for any troller, designed to automatically halt the downrigger weight at the water’s surface, preventing the “cannonball” from crashing into the boom and causing damage. When it works, it’s a seamless part of the fishing experience. When it fails, it can lead to frustration and potential gear damage. This detailed, lengthy guide will walk you through the entire process of diagnosing and fixing any issue with your Cannon Autostop system, from the most basic checks to more advanced electrical diagnostics.

Understanding the Magic: How Autostop Works

Before you can troubleshoot the system, it’s crucial to understand its elegant simplicity. The Autostop feature, also known as “Short Stop,” operates on a basic electrical circuit.

The Circuit: The downrigger sends a very low-voltage electrical current down the stainless steel downrigger cable. This is often linked to the Positive Ion Control (PIC) system, which is designed to attract fish by creating a positive energy field around the wire.
The Water’s Role: When the conductive downrigger cable and the attached weight are submerged, the water itself completes the electrical circuit back to the boat’s grounded electrical system.
Breaking the Circuit: As you retrieve the downrigger weight, the system operates normally. The moment the weight and the conductive cable break the surface of the water, the electrical circuit is interrupted.
The Stop Signal: The control board inside the downrigger instantly detects this break in the circuit and cuts power to the motor, stopping the weight precisely at the waterline.

This entire process relies on a continuous, uninterrupted flow of low-voltage electricity. Any problem with the Autostop feature is, therefore, a problem with this circuit.

Level 1 Troubleshooting: The Simple Stuff First

Always start with the most common and easiest-to-fix issues before breaking out the multimeter.

1. Check Your Downrigger Cable

This is the number one cause of Autostop failure. The system requires a conductive wire to function.

Are you using braided line? Many anglers switch from stainless steel cable to heavy braided line to eliminate cable hum. However, braided line is non-conductive. If you are using braid, the Autostop feature will not work. You must use stainless steel cable for the system to function as designed.
Is your cable coated? Some stainless steel cables come with a vinyl or plastic coating. If your cable is coated, a small section of the coating (at least 3-4 feet) must be stripped where it connects to the spool to ensure it makes contact with the set screw and the spool itself, which is part of the electrical circuit.

2. Inspect the Terminal End and Insulators

The connection between your cable, your weight, and your release is critical.

The Insulated Stop Bead: Cannon systems use a black, insulated stop bead that is crimped onto the cable a few feet above the weight. This bead is designed to trip a switch on some older models but primarily serves as a physical stopper. More importantly, the system relies on the black snap swivel insulator that is placed between the cable’s terminal snap and the release clip. Its purpose is to isolate the downrigger weight (the “cannonball”) from the electrically charged cable. If this insulator is missing or has been replaced with a standard metal snap swivel, the circuit can behave erratically. Ensure this insulator is present and in good condition.
Corrosion: Check the terminal end of your cable, the snap, and the swivels for any signs of rust or corrosion. Corrosion can act as an insulator, preventing a clean electrical connection with the water. Clean any corroded parts with a wire brush or replace them.

3. Verify Power and Ground Connections

A weak or faulty power connection can cause a myriad of issues, including Autostop failure.

Check the Plug: Ensure the downrigger’s power plug is securely seated in its socket. Look for any signs of corrosion on the plug prongs or inside the socket terminals. Clean them with electrical contact cleaner.
Trace the Wires: Inspect the power and ground wires running from the downrigger to the battery or fuse panel. Look for any frayed wires, loose connections, or corroded terminals. A solid ground connection is absolutely essential for the Autostop circuit to be completed. Ensure the ground wire is attached to a clean, unpainted surface on the main boat ground or directly to the battery’s negative terminal.

Level 2 Troubleshooting: Hands-On System Tests

If the basic checks don’t solve the problem, it’s time to perform some simple tests to isolate the faulty component.

1. The Jumper Wire Test (The “At-the-Dock” Method)

This is the definitive test to determine if the internal components of your downrigger are working correctly.

What You’ll Need: A simple piece of wire, 1-2 feet long (a “jumper wire”).
The Process:
1. With the downrigger weight out of the water, turn on your downrigger.
2. Connect one end of your jumper wire to a known good ground source on your boat (e.g., the negative terminal of the battery powering the downrigger).
3. Touch the other end of the jumper wire directly to the stainless steel cable on the downrigger spool.
4. Momentarily press the “UP” switch on your downrigger to begin retrieval. The downrigger should continue running on its own after you release the switch.
5. While the downrigger is retrieving, remove the jumper wire from the cable.
Interpreting the Results:
- If the downrigger stops immediately when you remove the jumper wire, the Autostop feature (the control board and internal wiring) is working perfectly. The problem lies “outside” the downrigger—either with the cable itself, the terminal connections, or the main ground connection for the downrigger. Re-inspect all the points from Level 1.
- If the downrigger continues to run after you remove the jumper wire, the problem is “inside” the downrigger. This points to an issue with the control board or the internal wiring that transfers the current to the spool.

2. The Spool Connection Check

The electrical current has to get from the control board to the cable, and it does this through the spool assembly.

The Set Screw: Cannon downriggers have a small set screw on the spool. The first three wraps of the stainless steel cable must be wrapped over this set screw to ensure a solid electrical connection. If you’ve recently changed your cable, ensure it is installed this way.
Spool Shaft Contact: The spool itself makes contact with the downrigger’s drive shaft. Ensure this area is clean and free of excessive grease or debris that could insulate the components from each other.

Level 3 Troubleshooting: Advanced Electrical Diagnostics

If the problem persists, it’s time to use a multimeter to check for the correct voltages. This will definitively identify a faulty control board or internal wiring issue.

1. Testing the Positive Ion Control (PIC) Voltage

Since the Autostop and PIC systems are linked, testing the PIC voltage at the cable is a primary diagnostic step.

What You’ll Need: A multimeter (or voltmeter) set to read DC Volts.
The Process:
1. Turn on your downrigger.
2. Touch the negative (black) probe of your multimeter to a known good ground (the negative terminal of the battery).
3. Touch the positive (red) probe of your multimeter directly to the stainless steel cable on the spool.
Interpreting the Results:
- You should get a small voltage reading. For models with fixed PIC (like the Magnum series), this should be around 0.55V. For adjustable models (like the Digi-Troll or Optimum), the voltage will vary from approximately 0.2V to 1.2V depending on the setting.
- If you get the correct voltage reading, it confirms that the control board is outputting the signal and the connection to the spool is good. If Autostop still fails, it strongly points to a grounding issue with the boat’s main electrical system.
- If you get no voltage reading, the problem is inside the downrigger. The control board is either not generating the voltage, or it’s not reaching the cable. This could be a faulty control board or a broken internal wire (often a green wire) that runs to the gear case or motor. At this point, opening the downrigger housing for inspection or contacting a Cannon Authorized Service Center is your next step.

Summary: A Logical Path to a Solution

By following this structured approach, you can efficiently diagnose and solve nearly any Cannon Autostop issue.

Start Simple: Confirm you are using steel cable and that all power/ground connections are clean and tight.
Test Externals: Use the jumper wire test to quickly determine if the fault is inside or outside the downrigger unit.
Verify Internals: If the fault is internal, check the cable’s connection to the spool via the set screw.
Confirm with a Meter: Use a multimeter to check for PIC voltage at the cable. No voltage points to a faulty control board or internal wiring.

Patience and a logical process are your best tools. By understanding how the system works and methodically eliminating potential causes, you can get your Autostop feature working reliably, allowing you to focus on what’s most important—fishing.